Our four day four night trip aboard the Navimag was lots of fun and very interesting. Aboard we met 7 other backpackers from various parts of the UK and ended up having a fabulous time together. From late night card games to ´gay raves´ (the 6 guys get drunk, run outside into the freezing rainy night and strip to their boxers, and hat if you are james, and jump around like idiots to the magical techno inside their heads while us girls laugh and cry and film as much as we can) it was trully an experience I wont forget...the entire boat trip, not just the rave. Saw some seals following the back of the boat one day. Another entire day was spent with us all, slightly hungover, very sea sick lying and reading while the boat rocked and swayed in all directions over the very choppy pacific ocean. First experience in the Pacific and it wasnt all that great. Nobody got ill but we definitely all felt it.
After a 3 hour sleep on our last night the boat company very rudely kicked us off at 7:30 am and dropped us in the middle of no where in Puerto Montt where we immediately got on a 6 hour bus ride to Pucon. There, we all got a hostel together which we basically (other than two other people which we never see) have the run of. Lots of ´family´ meals and games. As a result of much confusion between me and another Anna I have been designated the nickname of ´triangle´ (Bermuda triangle, obviously).
Tomorrow, counting the weather is good we are all going to climb a volcano (6 hours up if you dont take the ski lift, 4 if you do....clearly I will be taking the lift). Once we get to the top the ride down takes 1 hour down....on slides! Should be a lot of fun, if I make it. Then to relax we are going to the hot springs!
Hope for good weather!
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Monday, October 25, 2010
Flamingos and Pizza from Arg to Chile
After arriving back in El Calafate we decided to stay at a place with a little more going on than Grandmas house and moved into our luxurious dorm rooms at Che Legarto. Luxurious, that is, if you mean teeny tiny with no room to breathe. Regardless, we had some really helpful staff, a hot shower, a sloping pool table and beer. What more could you ask for!
Had an early wakeup for our trip to Glaciar Moreno. Indredible glaciar with boardwalks at every height and every angle. Every few minutes (usually when we were walking between view point) you would hear a gunshot or the sound of a car backfiring,and then thunder as huge chunks of the ice fell away into the ice cold lake below. Amazing site to experience, despite the lack of Baileys on ice.
While the trip was supposed to be for 6 hours we finished taking our hundreds of similar photos from slightly different viewpoints and had 3 hours to spare before our friendly fellow bus tourists (from india) knocked on the window to inform us that the bus was here. Pretty funny to suddenly hear the indian accent in the middle of Argentina, ¨we go Ushaia tomorrow. Is end of world!¨
After Moreno we had a free hot chocolate at a very cute little shop and then ran into the tour group we had met in El Chalten for dinner. Had a very large, juicy, red, argentinian steak (about 1lb for 45 pesos). After a few beers with the group it was an early night and an early rise for our bus ride from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, CHILE! We started off with a very confused bus boarding with us getting completey settled and ready to go before we were told we would suddenly have to switch buses.... even though they were both going to the same place. Nice little trip through past a few towns and lots of country side. Passed the odd site of flamingos in a dirty black pond across from a coal mine.
Another day another country. Chile is beautiful. Great first impression with our first meal being in a small Pizza spot with an amazing pale ale from a local microbrewery, a delicious pizza, and the best fettucini pasta (homemade and cut to order) that I have ever had. After such an amazing meal I decided to splurge and have dessert. Apple cobbler with fresh cream and some gooseberry ice cream. Delicious. Total: CH$18,000... about USD$37.
Boarding our Puerto Eden ferry tonight at 9pm with a 6am departure tomorrow for our trip around the fijords up to Puerto Montt and then across the border back into Argentina to Bariloche (chocolate capital!!)
Incidentally I am having the same problem as before in India with nobody (even other travellers) knowing where Bermuda is so I have taken to carrying around a small map of the world to show. Came in handy today when the border control had no record of a ´Bermuda´existing on her list of countries. Ingles! Ingles!
Had an early wakeup for our trip to Glaciar Moreno. Indredible glaciar with boardwalks at every height and every angle. Every few minutes (usually when we were walking between view point) you would hear a gunshot or the sound of a car backfiring,and then thunder as huge chunks of the ice fell away into the ice cold lake below. Amazing site to experience, despite the lack of Baileys on ice.
While the trip was supposed to be for 6 hours we finished taking our hundreds of similar photos from slightly different viewpoints and had 3 hours to spare before our friendly fellow bus tourists (from india) knocked on the window to inform us that the bus was here. Pretty funny to suddenly hear the indian accent in the middle of Argentina, ¨we go Ushaia tomorrow. Is end of world!¨
After Moreno we had a free hot chocolate at a very cute little shop and then ran into the tour group we had met in El Chalten for dinner. Had a very large, juicy, red, argentinian steak (about 1lb for 45 pesos). After a few beers with the group it was an early night and an early rise for our bus ride from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, CHILE! We started off with a very confused bus boarding with us getting completey settled and ready to go before we were told we would suddenly have to switch buses.... even though they were both going to the same place. Nice little trip through past a few towns and lots of country side. Passed the odd site of flamingos in a dirty black pond across from a coal mine.
Another day another country. Chile is beautiful. Great first impression with our first meal being in a small Pizza spot with an amazing pale ale from a local microbrewery, a delicious pizza, and the best fettucini pasta (homemade and cut to order) that I have ever had. After such an amazing meal I decided to splurge and have dessert. Apple cobbler with fresh cream and some gooseberry ice cream. Delicious. Total: CH$18,000... about USD$37.
Boarding our Puerto Eden ferry tonight at 9pm with a 6am departure tomorrow for our trip around the fijords up to Puerto Montt and then across the border back into Argentina to Bariloche (chocolate capital!!)
Incidentally I am having the same problem as before in India with nobody (even other travellers) knowing where Bermuda is so I have taken to carrying around a small map of the world to show. Came in handy today when the border control had no record of a ´Bermuda´existing on her list of countries. Ingles! Ingles!
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Baileys on Ice
Due to the painfully slow internet I used to write my last blog I dont think my full excitement was able to show through the frustration. So I want to give the full credit to El Chalten that is due. While a new town (only one year older than me...1985 settlement if you HAVE to ask) El Chalten was so quaint and adorable it was no wonder that so many people flock there. It is the quintessential stop for any trip to Patagonia, in my opinion. With, maybe, a hundred buidings, only half of them are finished. Regardless of the size of the town the surrounding mountains are amazing. Cerro Torres the mountain rainge and Fitz Roy were unbelievable. We had the amazing luck of seeing them both on our first day. On our next day we took a 4 hour walk (8 hour total) to Lago Torres. Beautiful trails up and over hills, through the forest, over streams, throuh marsh (if you are like us and got lost...trusty Giibs navigation strikes again). The end result was a lake with a glacier at the end. Didn´t stay long due to the strong wind, but was still an amazing sight. Legs definitely felt like rubber when I got back though.
We spent the previous night at the microbrewery (where I saw a $2 Bermuda note...huge excitement there). Amazing meal with spinach ravioli filled with squash and the best beer I have had in months. Made on site Bock and Pilsner. Tasted like heaven. To make up for our expensive dinner the night before we cooked dinner the next and spent the rest of the evening playing Shithead (that is the name of the card game so excuse the language)with a group on a tour bus and then an early, and much appreciated, nights sleep.
Next day we woke up pretty sore but very excited to visit Glaciar Viedma, the largest glacier in Argentina (so they say). Took a boat tour out, got blown about on top while we took pictures, and even saw a few pieces fall off!
The trully breathtaking part was walking on top of the glaciar. After getting our...major brain fart here, too tired...clangons clampons (feel free to laugh I wont be offended)....anyways you know what I mean, the spiky things on bottom of your shoes. Ok once we got those things (wow really tired) on we had a quick introduction (DONT SIT ON THE ICE, lean forward on way up, lean back on way down) we were off. Beautiful crevices, deep blue ice, crunchy ice on top, streams on their way down. Absolutely incredible! After a few treacherous moments and a few jokes about my descents (apparently I look like I am doing the limbo when I go down...I WAS SCARED) we reached the top and was treated by our three guides to Baileys on ice. Real ice. Glaciar ice. Lets just say they have ruined Baileys on ice forever for me. I will never have a more beautiful, delicious, and well deserved drink. Coffee and a chocolate on the boat ride back. Never have I spent a wiser $80USD.
Evening bus ride back to El Calafate and Glacier Moreno tomorrow morning.
We spent the previous night at the microbrewery (where I saw a $2 Bermuda note...huge excitement there). Amazing meal with spinach ravioli filled with squash and the best beer I have had in months. Made on site Bock and Pilsner. Tasted like heaven. To make up for our expensive dinner the night before we cooked dinner the next and spent the rest of the evening playing Shithead (that is the name of the card game so excuse the language)with a group on a tour bus and then an early, and much appreciated, nights sleep.
Next day we woke up pretty sore but very excited to visit Glaciar Viedma, the largest glacier in Argentina (so they say). Took a boat tour out, got blown about on top while we took pictures, and even saw a few pieces fall off!
The trully breathtaking part was walking on top of the glaciar. After getting our...major brain fart here, too tired...clangons clampons (feel free to laugh I wont be offended)....anyways you know what I mean, the spiky things on bottom of your shoes. Ok once we got those things (wow really tired) on we had a quick introduction (DONT SIT ON THE ICE, lean forward on way up, lean back on way down) we were off. Beautiful crevices, deep blue ice, crunchy ice on top, streams on their way down. Absolutely incredible! After a few treacherous moments and a few jokes about my descents (apparently I look like I am doing the limbo when I go down...I WAS SCARED) we reached the top and was treated by our three guides to Baileys on ice. Real ice. Glaciar ice. Lets just say they have ruined Baileys on ice forever for me. I will never have a more beautiful, delicious, and well deserved drink. Coffee and a chocolate on the boat ride back. Never have I spent a wiser $80USD.
Evening bus ride back to El Calafate and Glacier Moreno tomorrow morning.
Thursday, October 21, 2010
To Grandmas House We GO!
After the concert we did little else in Buenos Aires but rest, eat, and do a little more sightseeing. Next we took an overnight bus to Puerto Madryn, Patagonia. We awoke the next morning, on the bus, to a land of nothing. Complete desert all around. The town looked ominous completely surrounded by, again, nothing. However, our expectations were of course exceeded as we were made privy to the beautiful animals on Peninsula Valdes, a UNESCO world heritage site. The whales, who come at this time to give birth and raise their young before moving back to the Antartic waters, were eveywhere. We took a boat trip out to see them and saw the very ¨weird¨(I think they meant rare)site of an albino baby whale. The huge mass of white below the surface of the water about 50 feet from the boat was extremely impressive. We also got about a foot away from some penguins (real photo posers they are), and about 50 feet away from some Elephant Seals. No surprise where their names came from as we had the chance to see a territorial male blow his trunk and honk away at a male who was getting a little to close to his girl.
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
After the concert we did little else in Buenos Aires but rest, eat, and do a little more sightseeing. Next we took an overnight bus to Puerto Madryn, Patagonia. We awoke the next morning, on the bus, to a land of nothing. Complete desert all around. The town looked ominous completely surrounded by, again, nothing. However, our expectations were of course exceeded as we were made privy to the beautiful animals on Peninsula Valdes, a UNESCO world heritage site. The whales, who come at this time to give birth and raise their young before moving back to the Antartic waters, were eveywhere. We took a boat trip out to see them and saw the very ¨weird¨(I think they meant rare)site of an albino baby whale. The huge mass of white below the surface of the water about 50 feet from the boat was extremely impressive. We also got about a foot away from some penguins (real photo posers they are), and about 50 feet away from some Elephant Seals. No surprise where their names came from as we had the chance to see a territorial male blow his trunk and honk away at a male who was getting a little to close to his girl.
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Queens, Machines and all inbetween
After we moved to Art Factory the full effect of our exhaustion hit and we spent the next few days being completely sick sloths who did little else than eat and sleep...oh and take pills...lots and lots of medication (at the appropriate dosage of course). Finally after a quick visit from the doctor James was on some antibiotics and on the road to recovery.
During our recovery we did manage to make it outside once to see the local zoo. Actually an amazing zoo complete with lions and tigers and bears (you know what to do), elephants and giraffes, sheep (insert appropriate NZ joke...if you heard how many daily jokes I get about Bermuda you would understand that this is more than necessary), and many other animals. On the same trip we also managed to eat at a small empanada chain shop which stands as James´ favourite empanada to date. My favourite empanada is from a shop on the corner from our hostel where you can see from the street two woman hand making them all day long.
Yesterday after a late start we had a quick lunch at a world famous pizza shop, El Cuartito (http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/10/el-cuartito-serving-pizza-to-buenos-aires-since-1934-argentina.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+seriouseatsfeaturesvideos+%28Serious+Eats%29) recommended by Paul. Then we met up with our friends from Finland Toni and Elisa who we met on the tragic day of our robbery....still not sure if they are involved or not (pretty sure they arent although the jokes are getting a little close to home now). After a quick drink of vino tinto (red wine) on the terrace of our hostel we headed to the concert! Rage Against the Machine with Queens of the Stone Age to start. Dirty pancho for dinner washed down with some Pepsi (Pepsi concert therefore pepsi is appropriate). I can now say that I have been in a mosh pit...toes hurt a little the next day but it was well worth it. Never have I ever loved society´s appreciation for personal space more....or of soap. Sweaty hairy men of all shapes and sizes.... me stuck in between praying for my toes to make it out alive. The only way to stay safe most of the time was jumping with the crowd and holding on for dear life. Great concert over all. Something to mark off the bucket list.
Another much needed lazy day after our tiring walk back to our hostel...in the rain....with sore feet (I wanted to take a taxi!!!). Dinner with Justin and drinks with the Finnish friends then maybe off to Uruguay for a day or two.
During our recovery we did manage to make it outside once to see the local zoo. Actually an amazing zoo complete with lions and tigers and bears (you know what to do), elephants and giraffes, sheep (insert appropriate NZ joke...if you heard how many daily jokes I get about Bermuda you would understand that this is more than necessary), and many other animals. On the same trip we also managed to eat at a small empanada chain shop which stands as James´ favourite empanada to date. My favourite empanada is from a shop on the corner from our hostel where you can see from the street two woman hand making them all day long.
Yesterday after a late start we had a quick lunch at a world famous pizza shop, El Cuartito (http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/10/el-cuartito-serving-pizza-to-buenos-aires-since-1934-argentina.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+seriouseatsfeaturesvideos+%28Serious+Eats%29) recommended by Paul. Then we met up with our friends from Finland Toni and Elisa who we met on the tragic day of our robbery....still not sure if they are involved or not (pretty sure they arent although the jokes are getting a little close to home now). After a quick drink of vino tinto (red wine) on the terrace of our hostel we headed to the concert! Rage Against the Machine with Queens of the Stone Age to start. Dirty pancho for dinner washed down with some Pepsi (Pepsi concert therefore pepsi is appropriate). I can now say that I have been in a mosh pit...toes hurt a little the next day but it was well worth it. Never have I ever loved society´s appreciation for personal space more....or of soap. Sweaty hairy men of all shapes and sizes.... me stuck in between praying for my toes to make it out alive. The only way to stay safe most of the time was jumping with the crowd and holding on for dear life. Great concert over all. Something to mark off the bucket list.
Another much needed lazy day after our tiring walk back to our hostel...in the rain....with sore feet (I wanted to take a taxi!!!). Dinner with Justin and drinks with the Finnish friends then maybe off to Uruguay for a day or two.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Boca! Boca!
Palermo! Got off the subway and took a short walk to the Evita museum. Beautifully done in the building which was, during her time, a refuge and care center. Walked around Palermo, looked at the street fairs, tons of stalls, bought a pair of pants, and headed back. I am sure we would have been more enthusiastic about the area had we not been sick. James and I are both battling a cold so it has been a little difficult to enjoy it fully.
After a nap we went to dinner at a cute little italian restaurant near the hostel. We shared a plate of pollo portugese (chicken done with an onion and bell pepper sauce) and homemade fussili with a meat and tomato sauce. I have never had pasta so fresh and delicate. I could have had a bowl of that pasta, no sauce, just by itself.
After a night of rest (really taking advantage of this party hostel we are) we took a walk into San Telmo district. Since it was Sunday the majority of the streets were cordoned off and jam packed with antique stalls, homemade leather products, arts and crafts products, and any other product a hippie could ever want.
After a quick nap we grabbed a couple beers and headed off to a football game. Boca vs. Tigres. I of course underestimated the length of this trip and by the time we pulled in was darting down the streets to a McDonald's for the loo. Never have I loved McDonald's more. Had to push past the woman cleaning the stalls trying to tell me that the stalls were closed with many "por favor POR FAVOR!!!!" I think she got the gravity of the situation....she let me pass. Ended up having the entire football party waiting for me. Great. Round of applause to me.
The game itself was insane. Actually, for the entire 90 minutes I probably saw about 30 minutes of football (enough time to see one of the two goals). We sat in the Boca stands (the away team) along with the bus loads of hooligans. After grabbing our seat in the stands (an hour before kick off) we were privy to the setting up of the hooligans. Complete with a riot at the entrance with the police. Police in full riot gear, batons, and rubber bullet guns. There was a huge scuffle, we had a clear view of a few guys being beaten by the police, and about 10 guys shot through the commotion with their smuggled drums. All that for drums! Well, we could see soon after that it was worth it. Huge bags full of flags and banners were emptied, one legged men were climbing up walls to secure the banners over the crowd. Boys climbed up the barbed wire fence to hang from the top, shaking the fence so the loud speakers were dangerously close to falling over onto the crowd. The navy blue and yellow flags were everywhere. Beer and alcohol are banned from the stands so instead, the entire boca stand was covered by a thick cloud of smoke from weed. Bit of a surprise really... and you would think that maybe it would calm the fans down! Nope. Not a chance. These men (about 95% were men) spent the entire game, resting only during half time, singing, shouting, waving their flags, jumping up and down, shaking the stadium. The game was won 2-0 Boca. I was able to see the second goal, before I was shoved down a few stairs (by James who lost his footing....not his fault) by the crowd of Argentines behind us. I have never seen a crowd go so crazy after a goal. I almost hoped for there to be no more goals just to save my life. Amazing experience overall. During half time we spoke to a few of the older men who were sitting around us and found out that they were 'older' hooligans, who have calmed down since their crazy years of drinking and support (not that their support has dwindled at all). Later we found that our tickets were so expensive not only because they were bought through the mafia but for security. The older gentleman were paid to look out for us, and we reckon to pay off some of the tougher more decorated men around us, "this is why you still have camera" said our guide at the end. Fine by me!
Got back around 11:30pm, had an apple for dinner and passed out.
Moving to Art Factory Hostel today and maybe take it easy and try to get better before our concert.
After a nap we went to dinner at a cute little italian restaurant near the hostel. We shared a plate of pollo portugese (chicken done with an onion and bell pepper sauce) and homemade fussili with a meat and tomato sauce. I have never had pasta so fresh and delicate. I could have had a bowl of that pasta, no sauce, just by itself.
After a night of rest (really taking advantage of this party hostel we are) we took a walk into San Telmo district. Since it was Sunday the majority of the streets were cordoned off and jam packed with antique stalls, homemade leather products, arts and crafts products, and any other product a hippie could ever want.
After a quick nap we grabbed a couple beers and headed off to a football game. Boca vs. Tigres. I of course underestimated the length of this trip and by the time we pulled in was darting down the streets to a McDonald's for the loo. Never have I loved McDonald's more. Had to push past the woman cleaning the stalls trying to tell me that the stalls were closed with many "por favor POR FAVOR!!!!" I think she got the gravity of the situation....she let me pass. Ended up having the entire football party waiting for me. Great. Round of applause to me.
The game itself was insane. Actually, for the entire 90 minutes I probably saw about 30 minutes of football (enough time to see one of the two goals). We sat in the Boca stands (the away team) along with the bus loads of hooligans. After grabbing our seat in the stands (an hour before kick off) we were privy to the setting up of the hooligans. Complete with a riot at the entrance with the police. Police in full riot gear, batons, and rubber bullet guns. There was a huge scuffle, we had a clear view of a few guys being beaten by the police, and about 10 guys shot through the commotion with their smuggled drums. All that for drums! Well, we could see soon after that it was worth it. Huge bags full of flags and banners were emptied, one legged men were climbing up walls to secure the banners over the crowd. Boys climbed up the barbed wire fence to hang from the top, shaking the fence so the loud speakers were dangerously close to falling over onto the crowd. The navy blue and yellow flags were everywhere. Beer and alcohol are banned from the stands so instead, the entire boca stand was covered by a thick cloud of smoke from weed. Bit of a surprise really... and you would think that maybe it would calm the fans down! Nope. Not a chance. These men (about 95% were men) spent the entire game, resting only during half time, singing, shouting, waving their flags, jumping up and down, shaking the stadium. The game was won 2-0 Boca. I was able to see the second goal, before I was shoved down a few stairs (by James who lost his footing....not his fault) by the crowd of Argentines behind us. I have never seen a crowd go so crazy after a goal. I almost hoped for there to be no more goals just to save my life. Amazing experience overall. During half time we spoke to a few of the older men who were sitting around us and found out that they were 'older' hooligans, who have calmed down since their crazy years of drinking and support (not that their support has dwindled at all). Later we found that our tickets were so expensive not only because they were bought through the mafia but for security. The older gentleman were paid to look out for us, and we reckon to pay off some of the tougher more decorated men around us, "this is why you still have camera" said our guide at the end. Fine by me!
Got back around 11:30pm, had an apple for dinner and passed out.
Moving to Art Factory Hostel today and maybe take it easy and try to get better before our concert.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Finding Evita
After a great day full of ice cream and sight seeing we decided to "do as the locals do" and eat a late dinner. I took control (for once) of the directions and got us on the subway to take us to the California Burrito Company at 10:30. At our transfer stop we sat and waited for our next train... we waited... we waited. The tv's overhead turned off... hey maybe that girl we passed who was ranting in spanish was telling us the subway was closed?! Luckily we found a gate that was only partially closed and we slipped out of the deserted subway. Not a good sign. We were told, and have read, that people in Argentina don´t eat dinner until around 9 or 10.... apparently this is only on the weekends because upon arriving at the California Burrito Company, EVERYTHING was closed. Never has a street shawarma from the only open restaurant on the block tasted so much like shame and disgrace. Most expensive shawarma as well... it cost us $2.20 on subway fare, a $10 cab ride to the shop, $15 back, plus the shawarma themselves, and of course our pride.
The next day we moved to Millhouse where we are spending the next three nights. After checking in we took a walk down to Recoleta to see the cemetery which is filled with graves of famous Argentinians, including Evita´s grave. Took us a while to find it though. By the way, we thought our spanish was improving...apparently, while we have some phrases down, our accent is pretty poor. James, in search of this famous tomb, stopped an Argentinian and asked, in spanish, "where is Evita?" The man replied in English... then again maybe it was the fact that he was wearing a Vietnam t-shirt and carrying an Indian bag that tipped him off that he was not from around here.
After the cemetary we took a walk to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts). An amazing collection of art including Monet, Gaugain, Picasso, Degas, Manet, as well as other international artists.
A quick walk back to Lavelle street and we had our much anticipated burrito and tacos from the California Burrito Company. We will not be beat!
Heading into the Palermo district today to see some more sights (and for me to buy a pair of jeans...its cold here!).
The next day we moved to Millhouse where we are spending the next three nights. After checking in we took a walk down to Recoleta to see the cemetery which is filled with graves of famous Argentinians, including Evita´s grave. Took us a while to find it though. By the way, we thought our spanish was improving...apparently, while we have some phrases down, our accent is pretty poor. James, in search of this famous tomb, stopped an Argentinian and asked, in spanish, "where is Evita?" The man replied in English... then again maybe it was the fact that he was wearing a Vietnam t-shirt and carrying an Indian bag that tipped him off that he was not from around here.
After the cemetary we took a walk to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts). An amazing collection of art including Monet, Gaugain, Picasso, Degas, Manet, as well as other international artists.
A quick walk back to Lavelle street and we had our much anticipated burrito and tacos from the California Burrito Company. We will not be beat!
Heading into the Palermo district today to see some more sights (and for me to buy a pair of jeans...its cold here!).
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Buenos Dias Buenos Aires!
After arriving an hour late from Santa Fe we took a taxi to Pangea Hostel where I thought I had reserved a room on HostelWorld. Unfortunately, I somehow managed (again) to book the wrong night, so after spending one night in the dorms we are back in our own room. Apparently I cannot be trusted with reservations.
Our first day in Buenos Aires and we spent the morning searching for accomodations. Millhouse (the renowned party hostel), Art Factory (each room is designed and painted by a different artist) and Che Legarto (we stayed with them in Parati) all pretty much booked. However we still managed to get rooms. One night in Pangea, then two nights in Millhouse, one night in a dorm, then four nights in Art Factory. Lots of moving but it should be worth it.
For lunch we went to Santa Lucia restaurant on a corner near our hostel. With the help of our trusty translation book we decided to just have what the gentleman at the next table were having (i saw some sort of ravioli, a polenta looking substance, some meat and a salad). We were brought a salad. With onions. That is all. On attempt number 2 James decided to take matters into his own hands and ask for a portion of pork and chicken. We were brought fish. Clearly we are making huge strives on the learning Spanish front.
After lunch we went for a walking tour straight out of the lonely planet. Yay tourist!
Beautiful city though. Some streets look like New York, some just like London. Lots of shopping, lots of beautiful buildings. Two strikes with lots of drums....still not sure what they were about. Oh and the best ice cream I have ever had. This ice cream they pile high, two times as high as the cone. I had cookies and cream and strawberry. Soft like gelato, delicious.
Our first day in Buenos Aires and we spent the morning searching for accomodations. Millhouse (the renowned party hostel), Art Factory (each room is designed and painted by a different artist) and Che Legarto (we stayed with them in Parati) all pretty much booked. However we still managed to get rooms. One night in Pangea, then two nights in Millhouse, one night in a dorm, then four nights in Art Factory. Lots of moving but it should be worth it.
For lunch we went to Santa Lucia restaurant on a corner near our hostel. With the help of our trusty translation book we decided to just have what the gentleman at the next table were having (i saw some sort of ravioli, a polenta looking substance, some meat and a salad). We were brought a salad. With onions. That is all. On attempt number 2 James decided to take matters into his own hands and ask for a portion of pork and chicken. We were brought fish. Clearly we are making huge strives on the learning Spanish front.
After lunch we went for a walking tour straight out of the lonely planet. Yay tourist!
Beautiful city though. Some streets look like New York, some just like London. Lots of shopping, lots of beautiful buildings. Two strikes with lots of drums....still not sure what they were about. Oh and the best ice cream I have ever had. This ice cream they pile high, two times as high as the cone. I had cookies and cream and strawberry. Soft like gelato, delicious.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Santa Fe
Had one of the most interesting bus rides so far on this trip from Peurto do Iguacu to Santa Fe. We took semi-cama class, which includes seats that almost fully reclined, dinner and champagne or wine. Along with dinner we were treated to a very interesting and inappropriate movie. I have no idea what it was called but sex scenes and birthing scenes all while serving dinner was not my idea of an appropriate movie choice. Then again, the following ´Hairspray´ would not have been my #1 pick either.
We got into Santa Fe early, at 7:30am and went in search of a hotel. After a few confusing moments of figuring out from which direction the sun rises, and where East is in comparison with North, a very exhausted James and I figured out how to use a map and found a hotel two blocks from the bus station.
Never have I had such flash back as walking into this hotel. I was slapped with the memory of being in my mother´s mom, Grandma Margaret´s, tiny appartment in New York. Not only was the furniture of the antique nature, it smelled like her too...not the best smell, but kind of comforting at the same time...I guess. Anwyays, it was cheap, it was safe, it was comfortable. They had warm showers and towels (a luxury!).
Santa Fe itself was...interesting. Took a long walk to the brewery, to find out that the museum was closed. Walked around, saw some fountains, some interesting colonial buildings, and ended up eating a spaghetti dinner at a bar on the street, and watching The Last Exorcism at the movie theatre. Now that is what I call living it local!
Looking forward to something a bit more interesting in Buenos Aires. We arrive there around 9:30pm tonight.
We got into Santa Fe early, at 7:30am and went in search of a hotel. After a few confusing moments of figuring out from which direction the sun rises, and where East is in comparison with North, a very exhausted James and I figured out how to use a map and found a hotel two blocks from the bus station.
Never have I had such flash back as walking into this hotel. I was slapped with the memory of being in my mother´s mom, Grandma Margaret´s, tiny appartment in New York. Not only was the furniture of the antique nature, it smelled like her too...not the best smell, but kind of comforting at the same time...I guess. Anwyays, it was cheap, it was safe, it was comfortable. They had warm showers and towels (a luxury!).
Santa Fe itself was...interesting. Took a long walk to the brewery, to find out that the museum was closed. Walked around, saw some fountains, some interesting colonial buildings, and ended up eating a spaghetti dinner at a bar on the street, and watching The Last Exorcism at the movie theatre. Now that is what I call living it local!
Looking forward to something a bit more interesting in Buenos Aires. We arrive there around 9:30pm tonight.
Monday, October 4, 2010
A Falling Out
Rough past few days here. For our ´last´day in Brazil we decided to splurge a bit and have a nice meal at a churrascaria. While the piles and piles of meat that was forced onto my plate (often sending tomatoes and other unimportant food flying across the table) was deliciious and amazing, it will be remembered for the horrible horrible after effect of it all. Food poisoning. While James´ "iron stomach" helped him survive the horrible experience I was bed ridden for the next few days. Argentina was postponed.
After a quick and easy (almost too easy) cross into Argentina we checked into our ´Garden Stone Hostel´. After spending one night and one day, we were robbed. One iphone, laptop and dvd drive lighter we will be leaving Puerto do Iguacu and we will be leaving today. Spending my second night in a police station waiting for some kid (seriously no older than 24) to fill out our police report was not what I had planned.
On the brighter side, when still ignorant of the situation, we had a great day at the falls. Saw Garganta del Diablo (the devil´s throat) and many other sides of the waterfall. If only the experience wasn´t tainted.
Off to Sante Fe today before Buenos Aires.
After a quick and easy (almost too easy) cross into Argentina we checked into our ´Garden Stone Hostel´. After spending one night and one day, we were robbed. One iphone, laptop and dvd drive lighter we will be leaving Puerto do Iguacu and we will be leaving today. Spending my second night in a police station waiting for some kid (seriously no older than 24) to fill out our police report was not what I had planned.
On the brighter side, when still ignorant of the situation, we had a great day at the falls. Saw Garganta del Diablo (the devil´s throat) and many other sides of the waterfall. If only the experience wasn´t tainted.
Off to Sante Fe today before Buenos Aires.
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