Valpairaso was a beautiful city on the coast of Chile which reminded me a bit of Rio de Janeiro with is vibrancy and beauty. An hour and a half out of Santiago, Gibby, Shandy, Matt, James and I headed there from Mendoza for a few days of relaxing before Santiago and flights out. The city has a bohemian feel, with spray paint murals everywhere. It seemed as though everyone made an effort to get into the spirit of the city with elaborate doors, glass and mirror murals, spray paint art on walls and every other surface possible. Every building had some type of art. On a hill with some workouts to get up(reminding me much of Rio in that aspect) with narrow roads and tiny alleys. On our way to food from our hostel one day, which was located in one such tiny alley, we passed some local artists with walkie talkies communicating and keeping watch so they could complete their art in peace. Not that anyone should stop them. Its beautiful. Many photos to come of that.
While there we visited Vina del Mar, the beach (cold even for them, with iron sand....completely new for me), had a candy apple (or a toffee apple as it was argued over and over again by the english), and took a scenic and typical elevator ride up the hill (Valpairaso is known for them). On our last day we had a beautiful fish stew called "Paila Marina" with a massive amount of fresh shrimp, clams, mussels and fish for approximately $6 US. Beautiful.
One easy and painless bus ride to Santiago the five of us set out for our hostel La Chimba which will be my last hostel before I head home in two days. I cant believe its coming to an end but will be happy to get home (yes Mummy I missed the family...as well as your cooking). Will probably have some difficulties adjusting back to our keyboards as here I have lost all sense of where symbols are....for example, the @ sign is produced by pressing Alt+6+4. The ? moves form the top right to the bottom left...I have NO idea of where its usual position is. May not be my usual speedy typer when I return.
On our last few days of South America we will be exploring Santiago, we climbed (and by climb I mean we took the trolley) to San Cristobal hill, saw the Virgin Mary statue on top and a beautiful layout of Santiago. Still havent parted with the English crew (Gibby, Shandy and Matt) and will definitely be sad to see them go....however after many many delays they need to head up to Bolivia.
Probably the last post as I fly out day after tomorrow. So...until the next trip....bye and thanks for reading!
Monday, November 15, 2010
Friday, November 12, 2010
Catena Zapata
On our next day in Mendoza we took an afternoon bus to Maipu pronounced...ahem ¨my-poo¨(pause for jokes...there were three days worth of jokes made here so I have pretty much heard them all). Once in Maipu (stop laughing) we tried to find a taxi but to no avail. Standing in the middle of an emptry street, with 15 minutes left before we were supposed to be at Catena Zapata winery, we were five extremely lost and sorry looking tourists. Finally a police officer took pity on us, stopped, and called us a taxi. One sketchy taxi ride later with us having to stop (meter running) so he could fill up on gas(!), and stops along a dirt road with our driver insisting we were going the wrong way (the map does not lie!!), we arrived to a beautiful winery with the signature Catena Zapata Mayan temple style building before us. It was like arriving to a palace.
Every inch of the walls, floor and ceiling were made of a magnificent cream coloured marble/limestone. 12 foot long tables made out of one piece of wood from a tree from the Iguacu Falls. Premium french oak barrels (used for no longer than 3 years...a year shorter than the other wineries we visited) were lined up in rows in a large pristine and perfectly cared for ampitheatre shaped room...actually shown on their website. We got an extensive tour from top to bottom of the winery, including rooms with every inch of space taken by wines aging in the bottle.
The wine itself was indescribable. We were provided with two wines to taste, a 2008 Chardonnay and a premium bottle of their 2005 Malbec. Heaven.
The next day in a group of 9 we headed to MR. HUGO! A bicycle rent shop where we got bikes for the day and went from winery to winery, tasting and generally having fun. After the amazing day before, however, and because I was feeling slightly feverish I did not sample much wine and mainly concentrated on staying awake.
Did not think it was possible but am definitely sick of wine for now so Matt, Shandy, Gibby, James and I (the last remaining from the Navimag boat trip) headed to Valparaiso, Chile.
Santiago in a day or two and then flying back home.
Every inch of the walls, floor and ceiling were made of a magnificent cream coloured marble/limestone. 12 foot long tables made out of one piece of wood from a tree from the Iguacu Falls. Premium french oak barrels (used for no longer than 3 years...a year shorter than the other wineries we visited) were lined up in rows in a large pristine and perfectly cared for ampitheatre shaped room...actually shown on their website. We got an extensive tour from top to bottom of the winery, including rooms with every inch of space taken by wines aging in the bottle.
The wine itself was indescribable. We were provided with two wines to taste, a 2008 Chardonnay and a premium bottle of their 2005 Malbec. Heaven.
The next day in a group of 9 we headed to MR. HUGO! A bicycle rent shop where we got bikes for the day and went from winery to winery, tasting and generally having fun. After the amazing day before, however, and because I was feeling slightly feverish I did not sample much wine and mainly concentrated on staying awake.
Did not think it was possible but am definitely sick of wine for now so Matt, Shandy, Gibby, James and I (the last remaining from the Navimag boat trip) headed to Valparaiso, Chile.
Santiago in a day or two and then flying back home.
Monday, November 8, 2010
Land of the Vino Tinto
After our white water rafting trip we had a great full asado lunch with tons of perfectly cooked beef, all types of cuts, steaming on a metal platter, topped up every few minutes whether we had finished it or not. All in all it was a wonderful day complete with an encounter with a real life gaucho who patrols the Chile-Argentina border.
The next day Matt, Shandy, Gibby and I went on a zip lining tour through the forest. Beautiful, fast, exhilirating and, of course, SAFE (love you mummy). Also had many mini spanish lessons from our guide who kept insisting I learn how to say ready to go, ¨estas listas!¨
That night we went for mexican food in Bariloche, followed by ONE tequila shot, and a few very interesting games of beer pong. I will go no further.
With a slight hangover we left the following day for Mendoza where I am currently. The first day in Mendoza, a desert in the middle of mountains, and there was a sand storm. Tree branches had fallen off into the road, the sand and debris was flying everywhere it felt and looked like a city of apocolyptic remains. I returned to the hostel with much lighter (in colour) dusty hair, and the outline of my clothes on my body. The temperature, however, was the real surprise. After being in the cold for the last few weeks I was rudely surprised by the intense dry heat. Followed by dust it was not the ideal introduction.
Today was the exact opposite of yesterday. No wind, but very very cold. I dressed to accomodate the heat in a tank and shorts and immediately after exiting my room had to switch back into the cold clothes I had been wearing the last few weeks in Patagonia. This is apparantly the normal weather occurence after a sand storm.
After our friends Anna and Joe were sent back to the hostel because of a shut down of the Chile-Argentina border we ended up going as a group on a winery and olive oil factory tour. The first winery we went to was clearly an industrial mass produced factory with ladies topping up fizzing bottles of white wine with a squeegy bottle....something was wrong with that production line.
The second winery tour at Cavas de Don Arturas was fantastic. We were able to get a tour in english (thank goodness!!!) with a woman born and raised in Florida but who moved to Mendoza to work on her family´s winery. Very snappy woman, starting most of her sentences with ¨of course!¨ but full of really interesting information. Bought a couple bottles, tried a few glasses, and headed back with some of the best olive oil, wine, bottled olive paste, cheese, and lots of other goodies perfect for an antipasto dinner. Even picked up some fresh jamon crudo from a nearby queso and carne shop.
The next day Matt, Shandy, Gibby and I went on a zip lining tour through the forest. Beautiful, fast, exhilirating and, of course, SAFE (love you mummy). Also had many mini spanish lessons from our guide who kept insisting I learn how to say ready to go, ¨estas listas!¨
That night we went for mexican food in Bariloche, followed by ONE tequila shot, and a few very interesting games of beer pong. I will go no further.
With a slight hangover we left the following day for Mendoza where I am currently. The first day in Mendoza, a desert in the middle of mountains, and there was a sand storm. Tree branches had fallen off into the road, the sand and debris was flying everywhere it felt and looked like a city of apocolyptic remains. I returned to the hostel with much lighter (in colour) dusty hair, and the outline of my clothes on my body. The temperature, however, was the real surprise. After being in the cold for the last few weeks I was rudely surprised by the intense dry heat. Followed by dust it was not the ideal introduction.
Today was the exact opposite of yesterday. No wind, but very very cold. I dressed to accomodate the heat in a tank and shorts and immediately after exiting my room had to switch back into the cold clothes I had been wearing the last few weeks in Patagonia. This is apparantly the normal weather occurence after a sand storm.
After our friends Anna and Joe were sent back to the hostel because of a shut down of the Chile-Argentina border we ended up going as a group on a winery and olive oil factory tour. The first winery we went to was clearly an industrial mass produced factory with ladies topping up fizzing bottles of white wine with a squeegy bottle....something was wrong with that production line.
The second winery tour at Cavas de Don Arturas was fantastic. We were able to get a tour in english (thank goodness!!!) with a woman born and raised in Florida but who moved to Mendoza to work on her family´s winery. Very snappy woman, starting most of her sentences with ¨of course!¨ but full of really interesting information. Bought a couple bottles, tried a few glasses, and headed back with some of the best olive oil, wine, bottled olive paste, cheese, and lots of other goodies perfect for an antipasto dinner. Even picked up some fresh jamon crudo from a nearby queso and carne shop.
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Villarrica to Manso
Our first morning after a brutal wake up at 6am (6;45 if your alarm is stupidly set to pm instead of am) we found out that the weather was not good enough to climb the mountain so we put it off for another day. Instead, we went back to sleep for another few hours and then headed off to the hot springs.
Naturally made jacuzzis ranging from slightly warmer than a pool to scalding hot temperature alongside a freeezing cold river. Beautiful. Absolute bliss. On our ride back we had a beautiful clear view of the volcano we were supposed to be climbing the next day. More than a little dubious. In fact, terrified of the steep mountain before us.
The next day we woke up to clear sunny skies and headed off to Volcan Villarrica. Minor delay when our van skidded out on the snow covered roads and had to put on chain links to our tires. Minor problem fixed we continued on our way. At the base, with gear all strapped on, clingons in bag, ice picks strapped outside, lots of layers on, this is the moment our guide Carlos and Jason decided to inform us that the ski lift was not working today. Major let down. Full panic mode now. I know how unfit I am, flashbacks of biking up the "hill" are coming back to me. After an hour or so of walking we reach the end of the ski lift. I am practically crying....I am not made for physical exercise like this! It is boiling up there, despite the fact that we are walking in snow, the sun is roasting us, and worst of all, I know we are not even half way, for goodness sake we havent even STARTED!!
After being downgraded to the "slow" group, I like to call it the "normal" group, we continued on four of us with our guide Jason. Every once in a while we would take a break for breath or some water or chocolate and be astounded at the view around us. Between gasps and whimpers I would occasionally mention that I would have more spirit if someone would just lie to me and tell me that we were half way. This would always be followed by someone telling me that we were and me cussing them off because I knew it wasnt the truth. Not until Jason our guide finally told me that we were a little more than half way through did I think there was an actual chance that I would make it. Fast forward 5 more hours, lots of chocolate and sugar, and a 60 degree steep gradient (in places) and we made it. We reached the top of the volcano/mountain and was greeted by a lungful of sulfuric smoke (healthy right?). Out of the cloud of smoke the view was amazing. 2,830m high up, no clouds in the sky. Just the scene of Pucon and Patagonia before us.
The ride down, despite my inital fear of the height and steepness, was the best part. With only our ice picks to slow us down (while trying not to stab ourselves, which I managed to do once) we slid down the side of the mountain one after another on our behinds. 7 hours up, 1 hour down. Incredible.
Every muscle in my body hurt that night, but it was completely worth it. The next day we left at 10am and moved to Bariloche, Argentina, sadly leaving two of the group behind.
Bariloche is known for a few things. Chocolate for one, which we have had a bit of. As well as its amazing location in the mountains and lake. We decided to go white water rafting the day after arriving. Out of a 5 class system (5 being the highest) we went on rapids graded 3 and 4 down Manso river (Manso ironically means ´calm´). First rapid and all but 2 of us went in the water. Freezing water. I was definitely more afraid of getting wet and cold than I was on the rapids....ok perhaps I was equally scared. With your guide saying things like "guys, we need to pay attention on the right when we go over the big wave we dont want to go right, avoid the whirlpool on the right, and the rocks on the left" or "DONT fall out here guys!" Like we can help it! On the whole the guides were amazing, full of jokes (all of which I fell for), very attentive, and they knew that river like the back of their hand...or better.
Perhaps some zip lining in the canopy tomorrow and then off to Mendoza.
Naturally made jacuzzis ranging from slightly warmer than a pool to scalding hot temperature alongside a freeezing cold river. Beautiful. Absolute bliss. On our ride back we had a beautiful clear view of the volcano we were supposed to be climbing the next day. More than a little dubious. In fact, terrified of the steep mountain before us.
The next day we woke up to clear sunny skies and headed off to Volcan Villarrica. Minor delay when our van skidded out on the snow covered roads and had to put on chain links to our tires. Minor problem fixed we continued on our way. At the base, with gear all strapped on, clingons in bag, ice picks strapped outside, lots of layers on, this is the moment our guide Carlos and Jason decided to inform us that the ski lift was not working today. Major let down. Full panic mode now. I know how unfit I am, flashbacks of biking up the "hill" are coming back to me. After an hour or so of walking we reach the end of the ski lift. I am practically crying....I am not made for physical exercise like this! It is boiling up there, despite the fact that we are walking in snow, the sun is roasting us, and worst of all, I know we are not even half way, for goodness sake we havent even STARTED!!
After being downgraded to the "slow" group, I like to call it the "normal" group, we continued on four of us with our guide Jason. Every once in a while we would take a break for breath or some water or chocolate and be astounded at the view around us. Between gasps and whimpers I would occasionally mention that I would have more spirit if someone would just lie to me and tell me that we were half way. This would always be followed by someone telling me that we were and me cussing them off because I knew it wasnt the truth. Not until Jason our guide finally told me that we were a little more than half way through did I think there was an actual chance that I would make it. Fast forward 5 more hours, lots of chocolate and sugar, and a 60 degree steep gradient (in places) and we made it. We reached the top of the volcano/mountain and was greeted by a lungful of sulfuric smoke (healthy right?). Out of the cloud of smoke the view was amazing. 2,830m high up, no clouds in the sky. Just the scene of Pucon and Patagonia before us.
The ride down, despite my inital fear of the height and steepness, was the best part. With only our ice picks to slow us down (while trying not to stab ourselves, which I managed to do once) we slid down the side of the mountain one after another on our behinds. 7 hours up, 1 hour down. Incredible.
Every muscle in my body hurt that night, but it was completely worth it. The next day we left at 10am and moved to Bariloche, Argentina, sadly leaving two of the group behind.
Bariloche is known for a few things. Chocolate for one, which we have had a bit of. As well as its amazing location in the mountains and lake. We decided to go white water rafting the day after arriving. Out of a 5 class system (5 being the highest) we went on rapids graded 3 and 4 down Manso river (Manso ironically means ´calm´). First rapid and all but 2 of us went in the water. Freezing water. I was definitely more afraid of getting wet and cold than I was on the rapids....ok perhaps I was equally scared. With your guide saying things like "guys, we need to pay attention on the right when we go over the big wave we dont want to go right, avoid the whirlpool on the right, and the rocks on the left" or "DONT fall out here guys!" Like we can help it! On the whole the guides were amazing, full of jokes (all of which I fell for), very attentive, and they knew that river like the back of their hand...or better.
Perhaps some zip lining in the canopy tomorrow and then off to Mendoza.
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Lets move on to Pucon!
Our four day four night trip aboard the Navimag was lots of fun and very interesting. Aboard we met 7 other backpackers from various parts of the UK and ended up having a fabulous time together. From late night card games to ´gay raves´ (the 6 guys get drunk, run outside into the freezing rainy night and strip to their boxers, and hat if you are james, and jump around like idiots to the magical techno inside their heads while us girls laugh and cry and film as much as we can) it was trully an experience I wont forget...the entire boat trip, not just the rave. Saw some seals following the back of the boat one day. Another entire day was spent with us all, slightly hungover, very sea sick lying and reading while the boat rocked and swayed in all directions over the very choppy pacific ocean. First experience in the Pacific and it wasnt all that great. Nobody got ill but we definitely all felt it.
After a 3 hour sleep on our last night the boat company very rudely kicked us off at 7:30 am and dropped us in the middle of no where in Puerto Montt where we immediately got on a 6 hour bus ride to Pucon. There, we all got a hostel together which we basically (other than two other people which we never see) have the run of. Lots of ´family´ meals and games. As a result of much confusion between me and another Anna I have been designated the nickname of ´triangle´ (Bermuda triangle, obviously).
Tomorrow, counting the weather is good we are all going to climb a volcano (6 hours up if you dont take the ski lift, 4 if you do....clearly I will be taking the lift). Once we get to the top the ride down takes 1 hour down....on slides! Should be a lot of fun, if I make it. Then to relax we are going to the hot springs!
Hope for good weather!
After a 3 hour sleep on our last night the boat company very rudely kicked us off at 7:30 am and dropped us in the middle of no where in Puerto Montt where we immediately got on a 6 hour bus ride to Pucon. There, we all got a hostel together which we basically (other than two other people which we never see) have the run of. Lots of ´family´ meals and games. As a result of much confusion between me and another Anna I have been designated the nickname of ´triangle´ (Bermuda triangle, obviously).
Tomorrow, counting the weather is good we are all going to climb a volcano (6 hours up if you dont take the ski lift, 4 if you do....clearly I will be taking the lift). Once we get to the top the ride down takes 1 hour down....on slides! Should be a lot of fun, if I make it. Then to relax we are going to the hot springs!
Hope for good weather!
Monday, October 25, 2010
Flamingos and Pizza from Arg to Chile
After arriving back in El Calafate we decided to stay at a place with a little more going on than Grandmas house and moved into our luxurious dorm rooms at Che Legarto. Luxurious, that is, if you mean teeny tiny with no room to breathe. Regardless, we had some really helpful staff, a hot shower, a sloping pool table and beer. What more could you ask for!
Had an early wakeup for our trip to Glaciar Moreno. Indredible glaciar with boardwalks at every height and every angle. Every few minutes (usually when we were walking between view point) you would hear a gunshot or the sound of a car backfiring,and then thunder as huge chunks of the ice fell away into the ice cold lake below. Amazing site to experience, despite the lack of Baileys on ice.
While the trip was supposed to be for 6 hours we finished taking our hundreds of similar photos from slightly different viewpoints and had 3 hours to spare before our friendly fellow bus tourists (from india) knocked on the window to inform us that the bus was here. Pretty funny to suddenly hear the indian accent in the middle of Argentina, ¨we go Ushaia tomorrow. Is end of world!¨
After Moreno we had a free hot chocolate at a very cute little shop and then ran into the tour group we had met in El Chalten for dinner. Had a very large, juicy, red, argentinian steak (about 1lb for 45 pesos). After a few beers with the group it was an early night and an early rise for our bus ride from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, CHILE! We started off with a very confused bus boarding with us getting completey settled and ready to go before we were told we would suddenly have to switch buses.... even though they were both going to the same place. Nice little trip through past a few towns and lots of country side. Passed the odd site of flamingos in a dirty black pond across from a coal mine.
Another day another country. Chile is beautiful. Great first impression with our first meal being in a small Pizza spot with an amazing pale ale from a local microbrewery, a delicious pizza, and the best fettucini pasta (homemade and cut to order) that I have ever had. After such an amazing meal I decided to splurge and have dessert. Apple cobbler with fresh cream and some gooseberry ice cream. Delicious. Total: CH$18,000... about USD$37.
Boarding our Puerto Eden ferry tonight at 9pm with a 6am departure tomorrow for our trip around the fijords up to Puerto Montt and then across the border back into Argentina to Bariloche (chocolate capital!!)
Incidentally I am having the same problem as before in India with nobody (even other travellers) knowing where Bermuda is so I have taken to carrying around a small map of the world to show. Came in handy today when the border control had no record of a ´Bermuda´existing on her list of countries. Ingles! Ingles!
Had an early wakeup for our trip to Glaciar Moreno. Indredible glaciar with boardwalks at every height and every angle. Every few minutes (usually when we were walking between view point) you would hear a gunshot or the sound of a car backfiring,and then thunder as huge chunks of the ice fell away into the ice cold lake below. Amazing site to experience, despite the lack of Baileys on ice.
While the trip was supposed to be for 6 hours we finished taking our hundreds of similar photos from slightly different viewpoints and had 3 hours to spare before our friendly fellow bus tourists (from india) knocked on the window to inform us that the bus was here. Pretty funny to suddenly hear the indian accent in the middle of Argentina, ¨we go Ushaia tomorrow. Is end of world!¨
After Moreno we had a free hot chocolate at a very cute little shop and then ran into the tour group we had met in El Chalten for dinner. Had a very large, juicy, red, argentinian steak (about 1lb for 45 pesos). After a few beers with the group it was an early night and an early rise for our bus ride from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, CHILE! We started off with a very confused bus boarding with us getting completey settled and ready to go before we were told we would suddenly have to switch buses.... even though they were both going to the same place. Nice little trip through past a few towns and lots of country side. Passed the odd site of flamingos in a dirty black pond across from a coal mine.
Another day another country. Chile is beautiful. Great first impression with our first meal being in a small Pizza spot with an amazing pale ale from a local microbrewery, a delicious pizza, and the best fettucini pasta (homemade and cut to order) that I have ever had. After such an amazing meal I decided to splurge and have dessert. Apple cobbler with fresh cream and some gooseberry ice cream. Delicious. Total: CH$18,000... about USD$37.
Boarding our Puerto Eden ferry tonight at 9pm with a 6am departure tomorrow for our trip around the fijords up to Puerto Montt and then across the border back into Argentina to Bariloche (chocolate capital!!)
Incidentally I am having the same problem as before in India with nobody (even other travellers) knowing where Bermuda is so I have taken to carrying around a small map of the world to show. Came in handy today when the border control had no record of a ´Bermuda´existing on her list of countries. Ingles! Ingles!
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Baileys on Ice
Due to the painfully slow internet I used to write my last blog I dont think my full excitement was able to show through the frustration. So I want to give the full credit to El Chalten that is due. While a new town (only one year older than me...1985 settlement if you HAVE to ask) El Chalten was so quaint and adorable it was no wonder that so many people flock there. It is the quintessential stop for any trip to Patagonia, in my opinion. With, maybe, a hundred buidings, only half of them are finished. Regardless of the size of the town the surrounding mountains are amazing. Cerro Torres the mountain rainge and Fitz Roy were unbelievable. We had the amazing luck of seeing them both on our first day. On our next day we took a 4 hour walk (8 hour total) to Lago Torres. Beautiful trails up and over hills, through the forest, over streams, throuh marsh (if you are like us and got lost...trusty Giibs navigation strikes again). The end result was a lake with a glacier at the end. Didn´t stay long due to the strong wind, but was still an amazing sight. Legs definitely felt like rubber when I got back though.
We spent the previous night at the microbrewery (where I saw a $2 Bermuda note...huge excitement there). Amazing meal with spinach ravioli filled with squash and the best beer I have had in months. Made on site Bock and Pilsner. Tasted like heaven. To make up for our expensive dinner the night before we cooked dinner the next and spent the rest of the evening playing Shithead (that is the name of the card game so excuse the language)with a group on a tour bus and then an early, and much appreciated, nights sleep.
Next day we woke up pretty sore but very excited to visit Glaciar Viedma, the largest glacier in Argentina (so they say). Took a boat tour out, got blown about on top while we took pictures, and even saw a few pieces fall off!
The trully breathtaking part was walking on top of the glaciar. After getting our...major brain fart here, too tired...clangons clampons (feel free to laugh I wont be offended)....anyways you know what I mean, the spiky things on bottom of your shoes. Ok once we got those things (wow really tired) on we had a quick introduction (DONT SIT ON THE ICE, lean forward on way up, lean back on way down) we were off. Beautiful crevices, deep blue ice, crunchy ice on top, streams on their way down. Absolutely incredible! After a few treacherous moments and a few jokes about my descents (apparently I look like I am doing the limbo when I go down...I WAS SCARED) we reached the top and was treated by our three guides to Baileys on ice. Real ice. Glaciar ice. Lets just say they have ruined Baileys on ice forever for me. I will never have a more beautiful, delicious, and well deserved drink. Coffee and a chocolate on the boat ride back. Never have I spent a wiser $80USD.
Evening bus ride back to El Calafate and Glacier Moreno tomorrow morning.
We spent the previous night at the microbrewery (where I saw a $2 Bermuda note...huge excitement there). Amazing meal with spinach ravioli filled with squash and the best beer I have had in months. Made on site Bock and Pilsner. Tasted like heaven. To make up for our expensive dinner the night before we cooked dinner the next and spent the rest of the evening playing Shithead (that is the name of the card game so excuse the language)with a group on a tour bus and then an early, and much appreciated, nights sleep.
Next day we woke up pretty sore but very excited to visit Glaciar Viedma, the largest glacier in Argentina (so they say). Took a boat tour out, got blown about on top while we took pictures, and even saw a few pieces fall off!
The trully breathtaking part was walking on top of the glaciar. After getting our...major brain fart here, too tired...clangons clampons (feel free to laugh I wont be offended)....anyways you know what I mean, the spiky things on bottom of your shoes. Ok once we got those things (wow really tired) on we had a quick introduction (DONT SIT ON THE ICE, lean forward on way up, lean back on way down) we were off. Beautiful crevices, deep blue ice, crunchy ice on top, streams on their way down. Absolutely incredible! After a few treacherous moments and a few jokes about my descents (apparently I look like I am doing the limbo when I go down...I WAS SCARED) we reached the top and was treated by our three guides to Baileys on ice. Real ice. Glaciar ice. Lets just say they have ruined Baileys on ice forever for me. I will never have a more beautiful, delicious, and well deserved drink. Coffee and a chocolate on the boat ride back. Never have I spent a wiser $80USD.
Evening bus ride back to El Calafate and Glacier Moreno tomorrow morning.
Thursday, October 21, 2010
To Grandmas House We GO!
After the concert we did little else in Buenos Aires but rest, eat, and do a little more sightseeing. Next we took an overnight bus to Puerto Madryn, Patagonia. We awoke the next morning, on the bus, to a land of nothing. Complete desert all around. The town looked ominous completely surrounded by, again, nothing. However, our expectations were of course exceeded as we were made privy to the beautiful animals on Peninsula Valdes, a UNESCO world heritage site. The whales, who come at this time to give birth and raise their young before moving back to the Antartic waters, were eveywhere. We took a boat trip out to see them and saw the very ¨weird¨(I think they meant rare)site of an albino baby whale. The huge mass of white below the surface of the water about 50 feet from the boat was extremely impressive. We also got about a foot away from some penguins (real photo posers they are), and about 50 feet away from some Elephant Seals. No surprise where their names came from as we had the chance to see a territorial male blow his trunk and honk away at a male who was getting a little to close to his girl.
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
After the concert we did little else in Buenos Aires but rest, eat, and do a little more sightseeing. Next we took an overnight bus to Puerto Madryn, Patagonia. We awoke the next morning, on the bus, to a land of nothing. Complete desert all around. The town looked ominous completely surrounded by, again, nothing. However, our expectations were of course exceeded as we were made privy to the beautiful animals on Peninsula Valdes, a UNESCO world heritage site. The whales, who come at this time to give birth and raise their young before moving back to the Antartic waters, were eveywhere. We took a boat trip out to see them and saw the very ¨weird¨(I think they meant rare)site of an albino baby whale. The huge mass of white below the surface of the water about 50 feet from the boat was extremely impressive. We also got about a foot away from some penguins (real photo posers they are), and about 50 feet away from some Elephant Seals. No surprise where their names came from as we had the chance to see a territorial male blow his trunk and honk away at a male who was getting a little to close to his girl.
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
After Puerto Madryn we took the long bus down to Rio Gallegos (pronounced Gha-shae-gos)and then a transfer to El Calafate. This town has the feeling of a ski village...without the skiing. The major attraction site is the Glacier Moreno. We instead spent the night at Grandmas house (a musty hotel complete with doilies, fake flowers, and the weird ´grandma´smell of dustballs and sweet freshener...I am not sure how we even found this place!) and took the 8am bus to El Chalten. With the slowest internet I have ever encountered I somehow managed to get the only hour when it is working. Here now we spent the afternoon taking a walk to the viewpoint to see the Fitz Roy mountain range. We managed to get here on the first clear sunny day this week and had the incredible opportunity to see the mountains at their best.
Tomorrow we have another 7am start to head off on a 4hour trek there and back. Small stuff for any other experienced trekkker....or even a fit person...pretty long for an unfit person like me. Must stay motivated!
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Queens, Machines and all inbetween
After we moved to Art Factory the full effect of our exhaustion hit and we spent the next few days being completely sick sloths who did little else than eat and sleep...oh and take pills...lots and lots of medication (at the appropriate dosage of course). Finally after a quick visit from the doctor James was on some antibiotics and on the road to recovery.
During our recovery we did manage to make it outside once to see the local zoo. Actually an amazing zoo complete with lions and tigers and bears (you know what to do), elephants and giraffes, sheep (insert appropriate NZ joke...if you heard how many daily jokes I get about Bermuda you would understand that this is more than necessary), and many other animals. On the same trip we also managed to eat at a small empanada chain shop which stands as James´ favourite empanada to date. My favourite empanada is from a shop on the corner from our hostel where you can see from the street two woman hand making them all day long.
Yesterday after a late start we had a quick lunch at a world famous pizza shop, El Cuartito (http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/10/el-cuartito-serving-pizza-to-buenos-aires-since-1934-argentina.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+seriouseatsfeaturesvideos+%28Serious+Eats%29) recommended by Paul. Then we met up with our friends from Finland Toni and Elisa who we met on the tragic day of our robbery....still not sure if they are involved or not (pretty sure they arent although the jokes are getting a little close to home now). After a quick drink of vino tinto (red wine) on the terrace of our hostel we headed to the concert! Rage Against the Machine with Queens of the Stone Age to start. Dirty pancho for dinner washed down with some Pepsi (Pepsi concert therefore pepsi is appropriate). I can now say that I have been in a mosh pit...toes hurt a little the next day but it was well worth it. Never have I ever loved society´s appreciation for personal space more....or of soap. Sweaty hairy men of all shapes and sizes.... me stuck in between praying for my toes to make it out alive. The only way to stay safe most of the time was jumping with the crowd and holding on for dear life. Great concert over all. Something to mark off the bucket list.
Another much needed lazy day after our tiring walk back to our hostel...in the rain....with sore feet (I wanted to take a taxi!!!). Dinner with Justin and drinks with the Finnish friends then maybe off to Uruguay for a day or two.
During our recovery we did manage to make it outside once to see the local zoo. Actually an amazing zoo complete with lions and tigers and bears (you know what to do), elephants and giraffes, sheep (insert appropriate NZ joke...if you heard how many daily jokes I get about Bermuda you would understand that this is more than necessary), and many other animals. On the same trip we also managed to eat at a small empanada chain shop which stands as James´ favourite empanada to date. My favourite empanada is from a shop on the corner from our hostel where you can see from the street two woman hand making them all day long.
Yesterday after a late start we had a quick lunch at a world famous pizza shop, El Cuartito (http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/10/el-cuartito-serving-pizza-to-buenos-aires-since-1934-argentina.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+seriouseatsfeaturesvideos+%28Serious+Eats%29) recommended by Paul. Then we met up with our friends from Finland Toni and Elisa who we met on the tragic day of our robbery....still not sure if they are involved or not (pretty sure they arent although the jokes are getting a little close to home now). After a quick drink of vino tinto (red wine) on the terrace of our hostel we headed to the concert! Rage Against the Machine with Queens of the Stone Age to start. Dirty pancho for dinner washed down with some Pepsi (Pepsi concert therefore pepsi is appropriate). I can now say that I have been in a mosh pit...toes hurt a little the next day but it was well worth it. Never have I ever loved society´s appreciation for personal space more....or of soap. Sweaty hairy men of all shapes and sizes.... me stuck in between praying for my toes to make it out alive. The only way to stay safe most of the time was jumping with the crowd and holding on for dear life. Great concert over all. Something to mark off the bucket list.
Another much needed lazy day after our tiring walk back to our hostel...in the rain....with sore feet (I wanted to take a taxi!!!). Dinner with Justin and drinks with the Finnish friends then maybe off to Uruguay for a day or two.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Boca! Boca!
Palermo! Got off the subway and took a short walk to the Evita museum. Beautifully done in the building which was, during her time, a refuge and care center. Walked around Palermo, looked at the street fairs, tons of stalls, bought a pair of pants, and headed back. I am sure we would have been more enthusiastic about the area had we not been sick. James and I are both battling a cold so it has been a little difficult to enjoy it fully.
After a nap we went to dinner at a cute little italian restaurant near the hostel. We shared a plate of pollo portugese (chicken done with an onion and bell pepper sauce) and homemade fussili with a meat and tomato sauce. I have never had pasta so fresh and delicate. I could have had a bowl of that pasta, no sauce, just by itself.
After a night of rest (really taking advantage of this party hostel we are) we took a walk into San Telmo district. Since it was Sunday the majority of the streets were cordoned off and jam packed with antique stalls, homemade leather products, arts and crafts products, and any other product a hippie could ever want.
After a quick nap we grabbed a couple beers and headed off to a football game. Boca vs. Tigres. I of course underestimated the length of this trip and by the time we pulled in was darting down the streets to a McDonald's for the loo. Never have I loved McDonald's more. Had to push past the woman cleaning the stalls trying to tell me that the stalls were closed with many "por favor POR FAVOR!!!!" I think she got the gravity of the situation....she let me pass. Ended up having the entire football party waiting for me. Great. Round of applause to me.
The game itself was insane. Actually, for the entire 90 minutes I probably saw about 30 minutes of football (enough time to see one of the two goals). We sat in the Boca stands (the away team) along with the bus loads of hooligans. After grabbing our seat in the stands (an hour before kick off) we were privy to the setting up of the hooligans. Complete with a riot at the entrance with the police. Police in full riot gear, batons, and rubber bullet guns. There was a huge scuffle, we had a clear view of a few guys being beaten by the police, and about 10 guys shot through the commotion with their smuggled drums. All that for drums! Well, we could see soon after that it was worth it. Huge bags full of flags and banners were emptied, one legged men were climbing up walls to secure the banners over the crowd. Boys climbed up the barbed wire fence to hang from the top, shaking the fence so the loud speakers were dangerously close to falling over onto the crowd. The navy blue and yellow flags were everywhere. Beer and alcohol are banned from the stands so instead, the entire boca stand was covered by a thick cloud of smoke from weed. Bit of a surprise really... and you would think that maybe it would calm the fans down! Nope. Not a chance. These men (about 95% were men) spent the entire game, resting only during half time, singing, shouting, waving their flags, jumping up and down, shaking the stadium. The game was won 2-0 Boca. I was able to see the second goal, before I was shoved down a few stairs (by James who lost his footing....not his fault) by the crowd of Argentines behind us. I have never seen a crowd go so crazy after a goal. I almost hoped for there to be no more goals just to save my life. Amazing experience overall. During half time we spoke to a few of the older men who were sitting around us and found out that they were 'older' hooligans, who have calmed down since their crazy years of drinking and support (not that their support has dwindled at all). Later we found that our tickets were so expensive not only because they were bought through the mafia but for security. The older gentleman were paid to look out for us, and we reckon to pay off some of the tougher more decorated men around us, "this is why you still have camera" said our guide at the end. Fine by me!
Got back around 11:30pm, had an apple for dinner and passed out.
Moving to Art Factory Hostel today and maybe take it easy and try to get better before our concert.
After a nap we went to dinner at a cute little italian restaurant near the hostel. We shared a plate of pollo portugese (chicken done with an onion and bell pepper sauce) and homemade fussili with a meat and tomato sauce. I have never had pasta so fresh and delicate. I could have had a bowl of that pasta, no sauce, just by itself.
After a night of rest (really taking advantage of this party hostel we are) we took a walk into San Telmo district. Since it was Sunday the majority of the streets were cordoned off and jam packed with antique stalls, homemade leather products, arts and crafts products, and any other product a hippie could ever want.
After a quick nap we grabbed a couple beers and headed off to a football game. Boca vs. Tigres. I of course underestimated the length of this trip and by the time we pulled in was darting down the streets to a McDonald's for the loo. Never have I loved McDonald's more. Had to push past the woman cleaning the stalls trying to tell me that the stalls were closed with many "por favor POR FAVOR!!!!" I think she got the gravity of the situation....she let me pass. Ended up having the entire football party waiting for me. Great. Round of applause to me.
The game itself was insane. Actually, for the entire 90 minutes I probably saw about 30 minutes of football (enough time to see one of the two goals). We sat in the Boca stands (the away team) along with the bus loads of hooligans. After grabbing our seat in the stands (an hour before kick off) we were privy to the setting up of the hooligans. Complete with a riot at the entrance with the police. Police in full riot gear, batons, and rubber bullet guns. There was a huge scuffle, we had a clear view of a few guys being beaten by the police, and about 10 guys shot through the commotion with their smuggled drums. All that for drums! Well, we could see soon after that it was worth it. Huge bags full of flags and banners were emptied, one legged men were climbing up walls to secure the banners over the crowd. Boys climbed up the barbed wire fence to hang from the top, shaking the fence so the loud speakers were dangerously close to falling over onto the crowd. The navy blue and yellow flags were everywhere. Beer and alcohol are banned from the stands so instead, the entire boca stand was covered by a thick cloud of smoke from weed. Bit of a surprise really... and you would think that maybe it would calm the fans down! Nope. Not a chance. These men (about 95% were men) spent the entire game, resting only during half time, singing, shouting, waving their flags, jumping up and down, shaking the stadium. The game was won 2-0 Boca. I was able to see the second goal, before I was shoved down a few stairs (by James who lost his footing....not his fault) by the crowd of Argentines behind us. I have never seen a crowd go so crazy after a goal. I almost hoped for there to be no more goals just to save my life. Amazing experience overall. During half time we spoke to a few of the older men who were sitting around us and found out that they were 'older' hooligans, who have calmed down since their crazy years of drinking and support (not that their support has dwindled at all). Later we found that our tickets were so expensive not only because they were bought through the mafia but for security. The older gentleman were paid to look out for us, and we reckon to pay off some of the tougher more decorated men around us, "this is why you still have camera" said our guide at the end. Fine by me!
Got back around 11:30pm, had an apple for dinner and passed out.
Moving to Art Factory Hostel today and maybe take it easy and try to get better before our concert.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Finding Evita
After a great day full of ice cream and sight seeing we decided to "do as the locals do" and eat a late dinner. I took control (for once) of the directions and got us on the subway to take us to the California Burrito Company at 10:30. At our transfer stop we sat and waited for our next train... we waited... we waited. The tv's overhead turned off... hey maybe that girl we passed who was ranting in spanish was telling us the subway was closed?! Luckily we found a gate that was only partially closed and we slipped out of the deserted subway. Not a good sign. We were told, and have read, that people in Argentina don´t eat dinner until around 9 or 10.... apparently this is only on the weekends because upon arriving at the California Burrito Company, EVERYTHING was closed. Never has a street shawarma from the only open restaurant on the block tasted so much like shame and disgrace. Most expensive shawarma as well... it cost us $2.20 on subway fare, a $10 cab ride to the shop, $15 back, plus the shawarma themselves, and of course our pride.
The next day we moved to Millhouse where we are spending the next three nights. After checking in we took a walk down to Recoleta to see the cemetery which is filled with graves of famous Argentinians, including Evita´s grave. Took us a while to find it though. By the way, we thought our spanish was improving...apparently, while we have some phrases down, our accent is pretty poor. James, in search of this famous tomb, stopped an Argentinian and asked, in spanish, "where is Evita?" The man replied in English... then again maybe it was the fact that he was wearing a Vietnam t-shirt and carrying an Indian bag that tipped him off that he was not from around here.
After the cemetary we took a walk to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts). An amazing collection of art including Monet, Gaugain, Picasso, Degas, Manet, as well as other international artists.
A quick walk back to Lavelle street and we had our much anticipated burrito and tacos from the California Burrito Company. We will not be beat!
Heading into the Palermo district today to see some more sights (and for me to buy a pair of jeans...its cold here!).
The next day we moved to Millhouse where we are spending the next three nights. After checking in we took a walk down to Recoleta to see the cemetery which is filled with graves of famous Argentinians, including Evita´s grave. Took us a while to find it though. By the way, we thought our spanish was improving...apparently, while we have some phrases down, our accent is pretty poor. James, in search of this famous tomb, stopped an Argentinian and asked, in spanish, "where is Evita?" The man replied in English... then again maybe it was the fact that he was wearing a Vietnam t-shirt and carrying an Indian bag that tipped him off that he was not from around here.
After the cemetary we took a walk to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts). An amazing collection of art including Monet, Gaugain, Picasso, Degas, Manet, as well as other international artists.
A quick walk back to Lavelle street and we had our much anticipated burrito and tacos from the California Burrito Company. We will not be beat!
Heading into the Palermo district today to see some more sights (and for me to buy a pair of jeans...its cold here!).
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Buenos Dias Buenos Aires!
After arriving an hour late from Santa Fe we took a taxi to Pangea Hostel where I thought I had reserved a room on HostelWorld. Unfortunately, I somehow managed (again) to book the wrong night, so after spending one night in the dorms we are back in our own room. Apparently I cannot be trusted with reservations.
Our first day in Buenos Aires and we spent the morning searching for accomodations. Millhouse (the renowned party hostel), Art Factory (each room is designed and painted by a different artist) and Che Legarto (we stayed with them in Parati) all pretty much booked. However we still managed to get rooms. One night in Pangea, then two nights in Millhouse, one night in a dorm, then four nights in Art Factory. Lots of moving but it should be worth it.
For lunch we went to Santa Lucia restaurant on a corner near our hostel. With the help of our trusty translation book we decided to just have what the gentleman at the next table were having (i saw some sort of ravioli, a polenta looking substance, some meat and a salad). We were brought a salad. With onions. That is all. On attempt number 2 James decided to take matters into his own hands and ask for a portion of pork and chicken. We were brought fish. Clearly we are making huge strives on the learning Spanish front.
After lunch we went for a walking tour straight out of the lonely planet. Yay tourist!
Beautiful city though. Some streets look like New York, some just like London. Lots of shopping, lots of beautiful buildings. Two strikes with lots of drums....still not sure what they were about. Oh and the best ice cream I have ever had. This ice cream they pile high, two times as high as the cone. I had cookies and cream and strawberry. Soft like gelato, delicious.
Our first day in Buenos Aires and we spent the morning searching for accomodations. Millhouse (the renowned party hostel), Art Factory (each room is designed and painted by a different artist) and Che Legarto (we stayed with them in Parati) all pretty much booked. However we still managed to get rooms. One night in Pangea, then two nights in Millhouse, one night in a dorm, then four nights in Art Factory. Lots of moving but it should be worth it.
For lunch we went to Santa Lucia restaurant on a corner near our hostel. With the help of our trusty translation book we decided to just have what the gentleman at the next table were having (i saw some sort of ravioli, a polenta looking substance, some meat and a salad). We were brought a salad. With onions. That is all. On attempt number 2 James decided to take matters into his own hands and ask for a portion of pork and chicken. We were brought fish. Clearly we are making huge strives on the learning Spanish front.
After lunch we went for a walking tour straight out of the lonely planet. Yay tourist!
Beautiful city though. Some streets look like New York, some just like London. Lots of shopping, lots of beautiful buildings. Two strikes with lots of drums....still not sure what they were about. Oh and the best ice cream I have ever had. This ice cream they pile high, two times as high as the cone. I had cookies and cream and strawberry. Soft like gelato, delicious.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Santa Fe
Had one of the most interesting bus rides so far on this trip from Peurto do Iguacu to Santa Fe. We took semi-cama class, which includes seats that almost fully reclined, dinner and champagne or wine. Along with dinner we were treated to a very interesting and inappropriate movie. I have no idea what it was called but sex scenes and birthing scenes all while serving dinner was not my idea of an appropriate movie choice. Then again, the following ´Hairspray´ would not have been my #1 pick either.
We got into Santa Fe early, at 7:30am and went in search of a hotel. After a few confusing moments of figuring out from which direction the sun rises, and where East is in comparison with North, a very exhausted James and I figured out how to use a map and found a hotel two blocks from the bus station.
Never have I had such flash back as walking into this hotel. I was slapped with the memory of being in my mother´s mom, Grandma Margaret´s, tiny appartment in New York. Not only was the furniture of the antique nature, it smelled like her too...not the best smell, but kind of comforting at the same time...I guess. Anwyays, it was cheap, it was safe, it was comfortable. They had warm showers and towels (a luxury!).
Santa Fe itself was...interesting. Took a long walk to the brewery, to find out that the museum was closed. Walked around, saw some fountains, some interesting colonial buildings, and ended up eating a spaghetti dinner at a bar on the street, and watching The Last Exorcism at the movie theatre. Now that is what I call living it local!
Looking forward to something a bit more interesting in Buenos Aires. We arrive there around 9:30pm tonight.
We got into Santa Fe early, at 7:30am and went in search of a hotel. After a few confusing moments of figuring out from which direction the sun rises, and where East is in comparison with North, a very exhausted James and I figured out how to use a map and found a hotel two blocks from the bus station.
Never have I had such flash back as walking into this hotel. I was slapped with the memory of being in my mother´s mom, Grandma Margaret´s, tiny appartment in New York. Not only was the furniture of the antique nature, it smelled like her too...not the best smell, but kind of comforting at the same time...I guess. Anwyays, it was cheap, it was safe, it was comfortable. They had warm showers and towels (a luxury!).
Santa Fe itself was...interesting. Took a long walk to the brewery, to find out that the museum was closed. Walked around, saw some fountains, some interesting colonial buildings, and ended up eating a spaghetti dinner at a bar on the street, and watching The Last Exorcism at the movie theatre. Now that is what I call living it local!
Looking forward to something a bit more interesting in Buenos Aires. We arrive there around 9:30pm tonight.
Monday, October 4, 2010
A Falling Out
Rough past few days here. For our ´last´day in Brazil we decided to splurge a bit and have a nice meal at a churrascaria. While the piles and piles of meat that was forced onto my plate (often sending tomatoes and other unimportant food flying across the table) was deliciious and amazing, it will be remembered for the horrible horrible after effect of it all. Food poisoning. While James´ "iron stomach" helped him survive the horrible experience I was bed ridden for the next few days. Argentina was postponed.
After a quick and easy (almost too easy) cross into Argentina we checked into our ´Garden Stone Hostel´. After spending one night and one day, we were robbed. One iphone, laptop and dvd drive lighter we will be leaving Puerto do Iguacu and we will be leaving today. Spending my second night in a police station waiting for some kid (seriously no older than 24) to fill out our police report was not what I had planned.
On the brighter side, when still ignorant of the situation, we had a great day at the falls. Saw Garganta del Diablo (the devil´s throat) and many other sides of the waterfall. If only the experience wasn´t tainted.
Off to Sante Fe today before Buenos Aires.
After a quick and easy (almost too easy) cross into Argentina we checked into our ´Garden Stone Hostel´. After spending one night and one day, we were robbed. One iphone, laptop and dvd drive lighter we will be leaving Puerto do Iguacu and we will be leaving today. Spending my second night in a police station waiting for some kid (seriously no older than 24) to fill out our police report was not what I had planned.
On the brighter side, when still ignorant of the situation, we had a great day at the falls. Saw Garganta del Diablo (the devil´s throat) and many other sides of the waterfall. If only the experience wasn´t tainted.
Off to Sante Fe today before Buenos Aires.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Taxi! FOLLOW THAT BUS!
So, Sao Paulo...we were there for one night in a cheap and dirty hotel recommended by lonely planet. I think they definitely need an update in their book, maybe a review to mention the convenience and obvious use of this hotel for quick use from the downstairs bar. Ah well it had a bed and a bathroom and was ok for one night at least. We had a fabulous sushi dinner in the large Japanese district and walked around the next day in the shopping district. Definitely had a moment of confusion when I suddenly couldn't wlember if I was in NYC or Boston or in Brazil as we were surrounded by high end stores... Of course we abruptly remembered where we were when we walked into the abundance of homeless. They were everywhere and it was obviously pretty sad and depressing. We were glad to go.
Took another overnight train to florianopolis where we stayed at Tucano hostel. This place is the reason I have not posted. It was the cleanest, friendliest most amazing hostel James or I have ever been to. Despite the rainy weather we managed to have fresh fish, crab, and shrimp. We took a boat one day over to the fishermans village and saw a local waterfall. We took a trek over the sand dunes to Juaquina beach. On the only sunny day we went back to the beach with two Irish guys staying at the hostel and two Brazilian air force tourists from Rio. On Tuesday night after a few too many capihirinias at the hostel we went for a ride to a bar on the sand dunes for some samba! The ride there and back was more comfortable for some...as we had our friends from rio they offered a lift. Not wanting to have to walk around looking for a cab we all piled in. Safety first! James and I went over in the boot...thankfully our friends were very kind to us when going over speed bumps.
Samba was lots of fun after I decided not to care if I looked even more like a gringo...standing with three very pale tourists kind of gave me away (ofcourse to keep the peace I must mention that james is actually quite tan....in his eyes).
After a very late sleep in we took advantage of the sun and spent a few hours on the beach watching the locals and tourists surf.
My favorite day was going down to the south of the island and getting a dozen very large very fresh oysters from a restaurant on the water overlooking the oyster farms.
After a few very awkward hugs with our Irish friends (for James they were awkward) we headed to the bus stop with an hour and fifteen minutes before our 6:00pm overnight bus to Foz do Iguacu. At 5:50, knowing we still had about 15 minutes before we would arrive at the bus station, we started to panic. The traffic was horrific...go figure! Who would think that rush hour would mean traffic?! Mental head slap insert about now. 6:05 we got to the bus stop and ran as though we were a part of the amazing race, bags slamming making slower and more awkward as we dodged the throngs of people unloading from the many buses. We got lost. We couldn't find the exit!!!! "HOW DO YOU GET OUT OF THIS PLACE," we yelled and looked wildly around. We found it. We ran across the street, dodging bikes and vehicles, me picking up presents James had dropped. As my poor physical fitness became a quick reminder of my inadequacy. James sprinted out of sight. Wheezing, I finally caught up to hear that our bus, the last bus of the night, had left approximately 3 minutes before (it was 6:10). A few choice swear words by James an attendant took pity and wrote down the address of a gas station and stuffed us (me with my bags still on) in a taxi and told us we could catch the bus at it's first stop. Back in traffic, at a crawl, panic hit new heights and our laughter became slightly hysteric... our taxi driver caught on. A few maneuvers later he had us off the highway speeding around the back roads in one of the scariest rides of my life. Miraculously he got us ahead of traffic and we found ourselves driving directly behind OUR BUS! At it's stop our taxi honked and parked directly in front of it. We had made it! Many hand shakes and "Muito obrigada" later we were on our bus. I think our taxi driver was very pleased with himself, as he should be. He definitely saved the day. Note to self, take into consideration traffic next time!!!
Safely in iguacu now, heading to see the brazil side of the falls in a few and then the Argentinian side tomorrow.
Took another overnight train to florianopolis where we stayed at Tucano hostel. This place is the reason I have not posted. It was the cleanest, friendliest most amazing hostel James or I have ever been to. Despite the rainy weather we managed to have fresh fish, crab, and shrimp. We took a boat one day over to the fishermans village and saw a local waterfall. We took a trek over the sand dunes to Juaquina beach. On the only sunny day we went back to the beach with two Irish guys staying at the hostel and two Brazilian air force tourists from Rio. On Tuesday night after a few too many capihirinias at the hostel we went for a ride to a bar on the sand dunes for some samba! The ride there and back was more comfortable for some...as we had our friends from rio they offered a lift. Not wanting to have to walk around looking for a cab we all piled in. Safety first! James and I went over in the boot...thankfully our friends were very kind to us when going over speed bumps.
Samba was lots of fun after I decided not to care if I looked even more like a gringo...standing with three very pale tourists kind of gave me away (ofcourse to keep the peace I must mention that james is actually quite tan....in his eyes).
After a very late sleep in we took advantage of the sun and spent a few hours on the beach watching the locals and tourists surf.
My favorite day was going down to the south of the island and getting a dozen very large very fresh oysters from a restaurant on the water overlooking the oyster farms.
After a few very awkward hugs with our Irish friends (for James they were awkward) we headed to the bus stop with an hour and fifteen minutes before our 6:00pm overnight bus to Foz do Iguacu. At 5:50, knowing we still had about 15 minutes before we would arrive at the bus station, we started to panic. The traffic was horrific...go figure! Who would think that rush hour would mean traffic?! Mental head slap insert about now. 6:05 we got to the bus stop and ran as though we were a part of the amazing race, bags slamming making slower and more awkward as we dodged the throngs of people unloading from the many buses. We got lost. We couldn't find the exit!!!! "HOW DO YOU GET OUT OF THIS PLACE," we yelled and looked wildly around. We found it. We ran across the street, dodging bikes and vehicles, me picking up presents James had dropped. As my poor physical fitness became a quick reminder of my inadequacy. James sprinted out of sight. Wheezing, I finally caught up to hear that our bus, the last bus of the night, had left approximately 3 minutes before (it was 6:10). A few choice swear words by James an attendant took pity and wrote down the address of a gas station and stuffed us (me with my bags still on) in a taxi and told us we could catch the bus at it's first stop. Back in traffic, at a crawl, panic hit new heights and our laughter became slightly hysteric... our taxi driver caught on. A few maneuvers later he had us off the highway speeding around the back roads in one of the scariest rides of my life. Miraculously he got us ahead of traffic and we found ourselves driving directly behind OUR BUS! At it's stop our taxi honked and parked directly in front of it. We had made it! Many hand shakes and "Muito obrigada" later we were on our bus. I think our taxi driver was very pleased with himself, as he should be. He definitely saved the day. Note to self, take into consideration traffic next time!!!
Safely in iguacu now, heading to see the brazil side of the falls in a few and then the Argentinian side tomorrow.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Just let it slide
After our relaxing, lazy all day boat tour the day before, we felt that we needed to do something which required a little more effort. So, instead of taking the waterfall tour jeep ride with our fellow hostel friends we decided to rent bikes and make our own way up to them.
One disastrous shop stop later where we were very close to being ripped off (charge for a MAP? pump your own tire? ABORT), we were picked up by our friendly Spanish/Portugese very well (english) spoken friend Matteo and his son.
A few minutes later we were off on our adventure. A few short minutes after this I got my first reminder that I am not the most physically fit (biking with Raiza memories came up)... fast forward ten minutes later and I was the one on the side of the road panting crying out feebly "agua....AGUA" to James. After a grueling twenty minutes (or what felt like 60) of pushing my bike up a steep incline, we were at the waterfalls. I was left with little more than the sweat soaked clothes on my back and my cheap saracastic humour (dignity was lost long before, somewhere near the bottom). Oh, and low and behold, what should we find RIGHT in front of the entrance to the falls? A BUS STOP! Now, I could lie and say that "the adventure made the sights more spectacular" or "it made me appreciate it more" or even "I needed the exercise" (which I clearly did...the lungs definitely gave out before the legs). But lets be honest, the falls were pretty damn amazing without the struggle.... I think the lonely planet could have maybe mentioned that your options don't fall between a jeep ride or a death bike ride (by the way, I really hesitated when typing 'ride').
Anyways, the real site were the falls. I say we saw two, but really they were about 10 metres apart so maybe I will say fall part A and B. Part A was spectacular considering our state. Well I should clarify, MY state; James was fine... clearly a little better in shape than me. Oh, have to mention that he was instrumental in me making it up that mountain (not hill). Amongst the laughs and jabs he did help motivate me... even offered to push my bike the rest of the way, which clearly made me more determined to make it on my own. Anyways, dripping with sweat, red in the cheeks we jumped into the icy cold water. Ah... satisfaction.
Waterfall part B or Tobogan is a natural slide made out of the rock. While we slid down on our bums there were a few locals who gave us a great show. Taking running starts and sliding on their feet, they would do skips and feet moves, even jumping over other sliders as they sat on the edge, all before jumping swiftly into the pool of water.
The ride down the hill was, obviously, great. Laughed like an idiot the whole way down.
Although the weather was overcast today we were told that the weather over at Pao Trinidade (a beach) would be beautiful. Well, it was rainy and misty but still a great time. We made the trip with a few friends we made at the hostel and entertained ourselves despite the rain, playing games and taking silly photos (some more than others). Our fellow hostel friend, Grizelle (not sure of spelling but that is how it is pronounced) from Argentina was dubbed 'Photo'. 1000 photos later (no exaggeration needed) she was maybe half way down the beach. All photos of herself, which meant we were asked, individually, to take her photo. The best being one where she stumbled from the forest with a freshly plucked plant which she placed on her head and smiled. Not entirely sure what she was trying for there...
6 hour bus ride at 8:30am tomorrow morning to Sao Paulo. Fun.
One disastrous shop stop later where we were very close to being ripped off (charge for a MAP? pump your own tire? ABORT), we were picked up by our friendly Spanish/Portugese very well (english) spoken friend Matteo and his son.
A few minutes later we were off on our adventure. A few short minutes after this I got my first reminder that I am not the most physically fit (biking with Raiza memories came up)... fast forward ten minutes later and I was the one on the side of the road panting crying out feebly "agua....AGUA" to James. After a grueling twenty minutes (or what felt like 60) of pushing my bike up a steep incline, we were at the waterfalls. I was left with little more than the sweat soaked clothes on my back and my cheap saracastic humour (dignity was lost long before, somewhere near the bottom). Oh, and low and behold, what should we find RIGHT in front of the entrance to the falls? A BUS STOP! Now, I could lie and say that "the adventure made the sights more spectacular" or "it made me appreciate it more" or even "I needed the exercise" (which I clearly did...the lungs definitely gave out before the legs). But lets be honest, the falls were pretty damn amazing without the struggle.... I think the lonely planet could have maybe mentioned that your options don't fall between a jeep ride or a death bike ride (by the way, I really hesitated when typing 'ride').
Anyways, the real site were the falls. I say we saw two, but really they were about 10 metres apart so maybe I will say fall part A and B. Part A was spectacular considering our state. Well I should clarify, MY state; James was fine... clearly a little better in shape than me. Oh, have to mention that he was instrumental in me making it up that mountain (not hill). Amongst the laughs and jabs he did help motivate me... even offered to push my bike the rest of the way, which clearly made me more determined to make it on my own. Anyways, dripping with sweat, red in the cheeks we jumped into the icy cold water. Ah... satisfaction.
Waterfall part B or Tobogan is a natural slide made out of the rock. While we slid down on our bums there were a few locals who gave us a great show. Taking running starts and sliding on their feet, they would do skips and feet moves, even jumping over other sliders as they sat on the edge, all before jumping swiftly into the pool of water.
The ride down the hill was, obviously, great. Laughed like an idiot the whole way down.
Although the weather was overcast today we were told that the weather over at Pao Trinidade (a beach) would be beautiful. Well, it was rainy and misty but still a great time. We made the trip with a few friends we made at the hostel and entertained ourselves despite the rain, playing games and taking silly photos (some more than others). Our fellow hostel friend, Grizelle (not sure of spelling but that is how it is pronounced) from Argentina was dubbed 'Photo'. 1000 photos later (no exaggeration needed) she was maybe half way down the beach. All photos of herself, which meant we were asked, individually, to take her photo. The best being one where she stumbled from the forest with a freshly plucked plant which she placed on her head and smiled. Not entirely sure what she was trying for there...
6 hour bus ride at 8:30am tomorrow morning to Sao Paulo. Fun.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
It's party time in Paraty
Early wake up for a 9am Favella tour yesterday. Of course the 9am start meant a 11am start after we had picked up all of our fellow see through gringos (I obviously blend right in.....ok maybe not). Apparently anyone not from brazil is a gringo so it's not actually an insulting term as it applies even to people from Argentina.
Our tour guide Daniella took us to the favella Rocina (pronounced Hoe-seena) where we all jumped on the back of a motorbike to get to the top. Got a bit of an introduction as we all sped (helmetless) to the top while passing a gentleman holding a gigantic rifle. We were specifically told to "so so so pleeease guys no pictures taking of any men with walkie talkies or guns". Uh, no problem!
The favella itself was actually not at all scary. As a pack of gringos we all walked around through the narrow streets boldly holding our cameras. Had some sweets from a local pastry maker (chocolate donuts have never tasted so good). Despite the many stories that Daniella had to tell us of the workings of the drug dealers (my favorite being a police bust where 1 tonne of cocaine was airlifted out and "disappeared" as it flew over the favella) we felt surprisingly safe. Of course Daniella, covered in tattoos with hair to her waist, told us that even if we were to get in trouble, the guys in here knew her and would "take care of us".
Got dropped off at the sugar loaf where we got the cable car up and had a magnificent view of rio.
Quick dinner and an 8pm (four hour) bus ride to Paraty where we arrived in the middle of a blackout. In daylight Paraty (aka Parati) is a beautiful cobble stoned street town on the water. Took an all day boat tour with some fellow tourists from the hostel and visited various little beaches and islands and coves all while trying to avoid staring at our corageous boat traveller who went topless the entire time.
Arrived back on land just in time for a beautiful sunset over the harbor (full of other sail boats). Just as we pulled in the fisherman were unloading their crates of shrimp. Definitely going to look for some shrimp on the menu tonight!
Oh and for Paul, for a snack on our way to the boat tour today we grabbed a couple "carno" Pastels as you suggested. Amazing! A flaky light pastry fried with minced meat inside. Delicious.
Its so nice here we may stay another day and go on a mountain bike ride to see some waterfalls, one of which is supposed to have a slide down (naturally created). In fact, we could stay for another week it is so nice.
Our tour guide Daniella took us to the favella Rocina (pronounced Hoe-seena) where we all jumped on the back of a motorbike to get to the top. Got a bit of an introduction as we all sped (helmetless) to the top while passing a gentleman holding a gigantic rifle. We were specifically told to "so so so pleeease guys no pictures taking of any men with walkie talkies or guns". Uh, no problem!
The favella itself was actually not at all scary. As a pack of gringos we all walked around through the narrow streets boldly holding our cameras. Had some sweets from a local pastry maker (chocolate donuts have never tasted so good). Despite the many stories that Daniella had to tell us of the workings of the drug dealers (my favorite being a police bust where 1 tonne of cocaine was airlifted out and "disappeared" as it flew over the favella) we felt surprisingly safe. Of course Daniella, covered in tattoos with hair to her waist, told us that even if we were to get in trouble, the guys in here knew her and would "take care of us".
Got dropped off at the sugar loaf where we got the cable car up and had a magnificent view of rio.
Quick dinner and an 8pm (four hour) bus ride to Paraty where we arrived in the middle of a blackout. In daylight Paraty (aka Parati) is a beautiful cobble stoned street town on the water. Took an all day boat tour with some fellow tourists from the hostel and visited various little beaches and islands and coves all while trying to avoid staring at our corageous boat traveller who went topless the entire time.
Arrived back on land just in time for a beautiful sunset over the harbor (full of other sail boats). Just as we pulled in the fisherman were unloading their crates of shrimp. Definitely going to look for some shrimp on the menu tonight!
Oh and for Paul, for a snack on our way to the boat tour today we grabbed a couple "carno" Pastels as you suggested. Amazing! A flaky light pastry fried with minced meat inside. Delicious.
Its so nice here we may stay another day and go on a mountain bike ride to see some waterfalls, one of which is supposed to have a slide down (naturally created). In fact, we could stay for another week it is so nice.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Searching for a home and the Homeless World Cup
We checked out of our much loved Rio Hostel yesterday morning and spent the entire miserable rainy wet and cold day looking for a new place to stay. One of the few pick-me-ups of the day was lunch which we had in Copacabana in a small restaurant with the seats in a wrap around counter style all facing in to the glory of about 50 chickens and other various meats and veggies were grilling in the BBQ. Delicious meal. After the all day search we ended up only 5 minutes away from our previous hostel for half the price.
For dinner we went and had a caprese pizza at a nearby restaurant. With our beers we played a new dice game called Fargle (I won 2/3 and therefore has won the right to three blissful days of not having to hold the 'kitty' or money purse). Before we knew it it was 11 o'clock and the streets surrounding the bars and restaurants near the arches (which look like aqueducts) were closed to traffic and the party had begun. 2 am and after having a few at a club we headed back to the hotel. Quick stop for the BEST STREET HOT DOG EVER!! Anthony Bourdain would be in heaven.
Today we had a typical Brazilian breakfast of pastries stuffed with ham and cheese and coffee standing up looking out at the tiled stairs.
On our way to the Homeless World Cup football games we had a typical tourist experience of a coconut on the copacabana beach and then the most delicious meal I have had yet. Prawns. Garlic. Barata frita (fries). Glorious. Shells heads and all. The best I have ever had. There was a good 25 minutes of silence as we sat and sucked on those prawns till there was nothing left.
Off to football we saw the grace and finesse of Brazil as the girls team destroyed Paraguay 11-2. Classic James moment as we attempted to leave the stadium and avoid stepping on people. Since he didn't know the Portugese word for "excuse me" he decided "screw it I'll just say it in Italian!" and proceeded to say 'mi scusi' to everyone he passed (this is the only Italian he knows).
Dinner then bed. Favella tour in the am and then catching the bus to Paraty.
For dinner we went and had a caprese pizza at a nearby restaurant. With our beers we played a new dice game called Fargle (I won 2/3 and therefore has won the right to three blissful days of not having to hold the 'kitty' or money purse). Before we knew it it was 11 o'clock and the streets surrounding the bars and restaurants near the arches (which look like aqueducts) were closed to traffic and the party had begun. 2 am and after having a few at a club we headed back to the hotel. Quick stop for the BEST STREET HOT DOG EVER!! Anthony Bourdain would be in heaven.
Today we had a typical Brazilian breakfast of pastries stuffed with ham and cheese and coffee standing up looking out at the tiled stairs.
On our way to the Homeless World Cup football games we had a typical tourist experience of a coconut on the copacabana beach and then the most delicious meal I have had yet. Prawns. Garlic. Barata frita (fries). Glorious. Shells heads and all. The best I have ever had. There was a good 25 minutes of silence as we sat and sucked on those prawns till there was nothing left.
Off to football we saw the grace and finesse of Brazil as the girls team destroyed Paraguay 11-2. Classic James moment as we attempted to leave the stadium and avoid stepping on people. Since he didn't know the Portugese word for "excuse me" he decided "screw it I'll just say it in Italian!" and proceeded to say 'mi scusi' to everyone he passed (this is the only Italian he knows).
Dinner then bed. Favella tour in the am and then catching the bus to Paraty.
Friday, September 17, 2010
Christo Redentor
Bus number 497. From Lapa, where our hotel is, to the corcovada train station where we were to get a trolley up the hill to the infamous statue. The waiting room was full of flags and we had a cafe gelado (iced coffee) as we waited. Incidentally bermuda is not important enough to make it into the world of flags. Oh and while we laughed that Australia's flag had been rolled up, the only flag tag they misspelled was New Zealand or "New Zeland".
Christo Redentor was much larger than we had expected. Crowded with tourists taking unoriginal photos of the statue...ok yeah we took some too. If this is off season then I definitely do NOT want to see it when its packed!
Jumped on a bus and had a lot of Portuguese yelled at us when James managed to have difficulties with the very simple machine called a turnstile and had to jump off the bus and get in through the back. Apparently once you have been counted NO MISTAKES ARE ALLOWED!! No room for error here unfortunately. Got a very disappointed head shake from the ticket man on his pedestal (really, he sits on a pedestal to the side).
Quick dip in the water at Parque de Flamengo (James, not me...waaaay too cold for that). Beautiful beach with a few typical cariocas in speedos and women in thongs on the beach.
Back to the hotel for a dip in the much smaller than advertised pool and my first warm shower since getting here.
A beer, dinner, and maybe some samba!
Christo Redentor was much larger than we had expected. Crowded with tourists taking unoriginal photos of the statue...ok yeah we took some too. If this is off season then I definitely do NOT want to see it when its packed!
Jumped on a bus and had a lot of Portuguese yelled at us when James managed to have difficulties with the very simple machine called a turnstile and had to jump off the bus and get in through the back. Apparently once you have been counted NO MISTAKES ARE ALLOWED!! No room for error here unfortunately. Got a very disappointed head shake from the ticket man on his pedestal (really, he sits on a pedestal to the side).
Quick dip in the water at Parque de Flamengo (James, not me...waaaay too cold for that). Beautiful beach with a few typical cariocas in speedos and women in thongs on the beach.
Back to the hotel for a dip in the much smaller than advertised pool and my first warm shower since getting here.
A beer, dinner, and maybe some samba!
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Brazil is beautiful. After a quick breakfast of guava, toast and jam at the hostel James and I headed down to find the ATM. The adventure began after an impromptu decision to visit a small 'palace' on an island led us on to a ferry. Thanks to the famous Gibbs directions that ferry, however, took us right past the palace and on towards a random island off the coast of Rio. Once there we decided to walk to the only listed site in the lonely planet, the museum of contemporary art. Well...fourty minutes later we had walked into a fishing village where it was clear there was no museum in the near future. After a frazzled bus trip we were definitely in the right area. Oh, and the bus drivers...CRAZY! We were zipping through those windy roads like a bat out of hell.
Had lunch in a small restaurant which was clearly the common worker's choice. A line out the door for a $6 real buffet meal was definitely what was in order. After some advice from a local woman to "not cross street there, brazilian people no stop, and no care" we crossed the road at a 'safe' crossing, and walked to the contemporary building of contemporary art. Most interesting piece was a black canvas, no difference in shape, tilted ...ON ITS SIDE! Clearly art is a subjective experience because, baby, that was not art, that was a mistake! Pink velvet pajama pants hung up by a peg with only wooden feet coming out of the end? Now THAT is art. Or what about some notepad paper wripped out of the book and put in a case?
The trip ended, we returned to Rio after another tense Ferry ride ('please let this be the right one, please let this be the right one'). I was fading fast so a quick nibble of a custard filled strudel did the trick.
Walked through the city, passing stalls, good everywhere to be sold. My favourite store owner was a man in white, with his white beard covered in gold butterfly clips. Now THAT is advertising in its finest!
Took a walk through a rough area to get to the mosaic tiled staircase. The artist was there completing the upper staircase and asked me to place one of the tiles. I can now say that I was a part of this staircase. Incidentally, close to the bottom there is a Bermuda tile! Clearly someone sent it in....any takers? Anyone?
Off to have some Antartica beer and dinner and maybe go to a club for some dancing!
Had lunch in a small restaurant which was clearly the common worker's choice. A line out the door for a $6 real buffet meal was definitely what was in order. After some advice from a local woman to "not cross street there, brazilian people no stop, and no care" we crossed the road at a 'safe' crossing, and walked to the contemporary building of contemporary art. Most interesting piece was a black canvas, no difference in shape, tilted ...ON ITS SIDE! Clearly art is a subjective experience because, baby, that was not art, that was a mistake! Pink velvet pajama pants hung up by a peg with only wooden feet coming out of the end? Now THAT is art. Or what about some notepad paper wripped out of the book and put in a case?
The trip ended, we returned to Rio after another tense Ferry ride ('please let this be the right one, please let this be the right one'). I was fading fast so a quick nibble of a custard filled strudel did the trick.
Walked through the city, passing stalls, good everywhere to be sold. My favourite store owner was a man in white, with his white beard covered in gold butterfly clips. Now THAT is advertising in its finest!
Took a walk through a rough area to get to the mosaic tiled staircase. The artist was there completing the upper staircase and asked me to place one of the tiles. I can now say that I was a part of this staircase. Incidentally, close to the bottom there is a Bermuda tile! Clearly someone sent it in....any takers? Anyone?
Off to have some Antartica beer and dinner and maybe go to a club for some dancing!
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Beginnings in Brazil
Bermuda - Atlanta. Atlanta - Brazil. Total trip, including layover, 15 hours.
After a rip off taxi ride fare I was driving through a traffic filled city! Neck definitely hurting after twisting and turning in my seat every which way trying to take as much in as possible.
After a drive through the favellas, I was outside on a hill with the city before me. 50 steps up and I was completely out of breath. It was totally worth it. Beautiful room upgraded to a private bathroom because someone made a mistake and booked me into an unavailable room. I'll take it!!
As soon as I got here I met Sam from DC. We were on the same flight and ended up paying individual taxis to the same hostel (he paid 10 reals less than me...damn). We decided that since we were both completely knew to the city we would go together to find an ATM (he hadn't taken out any money). And so begins the adventure. 6 ATMs and 6 rejections later, having passed Rua Mahatma Gandhi (hey Indians are recognized here too!!) we reached the American embassy. After circling 4 times we found the entrance from which we were pointed in the direction of an HSBC. Never have I been so happy to be a part of HSBC.
First meal in Brazil was from a small buffet style diner where you pile your plate high and pay per kilo. Total cost: 9 real. Delicious piles of meat and salads, peas and rice and some more rice oh and rice.
After lunch a shower and a nap was in order and then continued on to Parque da Ruins (a newly ruined building with the only good point of having climbed the huge hill being the view). Lots of getting lost on my first day. Thankfully I was not alone.
Sam is a radio reporter from Washington. We had an impromptu radio lesson with an experimental interview with Ben, the psychology majored photographer. Was an interesting lesson for the day.
Oh and incidentally I have been told by the in house chef (through a translator) that I look Brazilian. Man, my Indian heritage is really making life easy. Who would have known! However she was quick to say that not until I learn some Portuguese can we be friends. Fair enough!
After a rip off taxi ride fare I was driving through a traffic filled city! Neck definitely hurting after twisting and turning in my seat every which way trying to take as much in as possible.
After a drive through the favellas, I was outside on a hill with the city before me. 50 steps up and I was completely out of breath. It was totally worth it. Beautiful room upgraded to a private bathroom because someone made a mistake and booked me into an unavailable room. I'll take it!!
As soon as I got here I met Sam from DC. We were on the same flight and ended up paying individual taxis to the same hostel (he paid 10 reals less than me...damn). We decided that since we were both completely knew to the city we would go together to find an ATM (he hadn't taken out any money). And so begins the adventure. 6 ATMs and 6 rejections later, having passed Rua Mahatma Gandhi (hey Indians are recognized here too!!) we reached the American embassy. After circling 4 times we found the entrance from which we were pointed in the direction of an HSBC. Never have I been so happy to be a part of HSBC.
First meal in Brazil was from a small buffet style diner where you pile your plate high and pay per kilo. Total cost: 9 real. Delicious piles of meat and salads, peas and rice and some more rice oh and rice.
After lunch a shower and a nap was in order and then continued on to Parque da Ruins (a newly ruined building with the only good point of having climbed the huge hill being the view). Lots of getting lost on my first day. Thankfully I was not alone.
Sam is a radio reporter from Washington. We had an impromptu radio lesson with an experimental interview with Ben, the psychology majored photographer. Was an interesting lesson for the day.
Oh and incidentally I have been told by the in house chef (through a translator) that I look Brazilian. Man, my Indian heritage is really making life easy. Who would have known! However she was quick to say that not until I learn some Portuguese can we be friends. Fair enough!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Dhanyavad
Delhi has been a lot better this time round. We are staying at the Hotel Rak International in the Main Bazar. Lots of shopping all around us. We have been alternating between two restaurants, for breakfast the Everest Roof top Cafe, and for dinner Club India. We spent our first day visiting Gandhi Smirti, the place where Gandhi spent his last few days and was then assassinated. The walls were covered with quotes by this man who was much further ahead of his time indeed more progressive than many of our politicians are today. We saw his few possessions including his signature glasses, his bed, and the footsteps he took before being shot.
Next we went to the Planetarium which was conveniently closed for renovations and instead went to Connaught Place. Here we fell pray to the scammers and got led into an alley to the 'underground shopping mall'. Took one look at the street and figured out that the 5 different guys who had told us to go that way were all working together. Doigt! So thought I would not fall for that trap. Instead we went to The Park Hotel and booked a few spa appointments and found out all the information we needed (thanks Sony for the tip). Did a bit of shopping and then headed back for some food and to see Jess off.
Yesterday we woke up early and headed to The Park for our day of pampering. Balinese Massages and manicures. Ahhhh to feel human again! Decided to go all out and had lunch in a cabana by the pool. Mmmm western food!! Next we did a bit of shopping, got my photos printed out (all 500 of them) and headed to the cinema to see 'It's a Wonderful Afterlife'. A funny movie set in London (in English) about a mother who murders four people for calling her unmarried daughter fat. A sort of Ugly Betty meets 'My Big Fat Greek Wedding' kind of movie. Very funny....sometimes for the wrong reason. To end the day with a bang we headed back to the hotel for dinner and HEENA!!! Beautiful designs that took less than 15 minutes!!! An amazing day from start to finish.
Back to the spa today for a haircut and a pedicure and some more Hindi lessons from my manicurist Raj (look, its cheap and worth it ok?....dont judge). Some shopping and then back to the hotel to see Ronit off to the airport. We have gone from three (Jess, Ronit and me) to two (Ronit and me), and tomorrow it will be just one. Flying home around 10:30 pm tomorrow night (hmm...should probably double check that)! Ronit leaves tonight so tomorrow will be my first semi-full day by myself. The next two days will definitely be bittersweet. Ronit and I have had such an amazing time together. I couldn't have asked for a better travel partner. We have already decided that I will just have to visit her in South Korea this year while she teaches English there...what a hardship, huh?
Leaving India will also be difficult. Tourists here are something of a celebrity with people running around trying to get a picture with you, staring constantly, and asking questions about where we are from. Being half Indian I also got the random people coming up to me and speaking Hindi, trying to help me learn phrases (a few of which I now know), and asking me about my heritage. I could never say that India is my home or that I feel a real connection because when we come down to it I will always identify myself as being from Bermuda. However, the country is amazing. It has been such an experience from each city, Delhi to Agra to Varanasi to Kolkata to Darjeeling to Sikkim to Siliguri and back to Delhi. The people, the food, the culture, the hotels, the movies we have seen, the laughs we have had. It has definitely been worth any hard moments along the way (shivers from the cockaroach hotel) and I will definitely have to come back.
Unless something happens in the next day worth writing about this will probably be my last blog of this trip. Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed it as much as I loved writing it. Dhanyavad! (Thank you)
Next we went to the Planetarium which was conveniently closed for renovations and instead went to Connaught Place. Here we fell pray to the scammers and got led into an alley to the 'underground shopping mall'. Took one look at the street and figured out that the 5 different guys who had told us to go that way were all working together. Doigt! So thought I would not fall for that trap. Instead we went to The Park Hotel and booked a few spa appointments and found out all the information we needed (thanks Sony for the tip). Did a bit of shopping and then headed back for some food and to see Jess off.
Yesterday we woke up early and headed to The Park for our day of pampering. Balinese Massages and manicures. Ahhhh to feel human again! Decided to go all out and had lunch in a cabana by the pool. Mmmm western food!! Next we did a bit of shopping, got my photos printed out (all 500 of them) and headed to the cinema to see 'It's a Wonderful Afterlife'. A funny movie set in London (in English) about a mother who murders four people for calling her unmarried daughter fat. A sort of Ugly Betty meets 'My Big Fat Greek Wedding' kind of movie. Very funny....sometimes for the wrong reason. To end the day with a bang we headed back to the hotel for dinner and HEENA!!! Beautiful designs that took less than 15 minutes!!! An amazing day from start to finish.
Back to the spa today for a haircut and a pedicure and some more Hindi lessons from my manicurist Raj (look, its cheap and worth it ok?....dont judge). Some shopping and then back to the hotel to see Ronit off to the airport. We have gone from three (Jess, Ronit and me) to two (Ronit and me), and tomorrow it will be just one. Flying home around 10:30 pm tomorrow night (hmm...should probably double check that)! Ronit leaves tonight so tomorrow will be my first semi-full day by myself. The next two days will definitely be bittersweet. Ronit and I have had such an amazing time together. I couldn't have asked for a better travel partner. We have already decided that I will just have to visit her in South Korea this year while she teaches English there...what a hardship, huh?
Leaving India will also be difficult. Tourists here are something of a celebrity with people running around trying to get a picture with you, staring constantly, and asking questions about where we are from. Being half Indian I also got the random people coming up to me and speaking Hindi, trying to help me learn phrases (a few of which I now know), and asking me about my heritage. I could never say that India is my home or that I feel a real connection because when we come down to it I will always identify myself as being from Bermuda. However, the country is amazing. It has been such an experience from each city, Delhi to Agra to Varanasi to Kolkata to Darjeeling to Sikkim to Siliguri and back to Delhi. The people, the food, the culture, the hotels, the movies we have seen, the laughs we have had. It has definitely been worth any hard moments along the way (shivers from the cockaroach hotel) and I will definitely have to come back.
Unless something happens in the next day worth writing about this will probably be my last blog of this trip. Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed it as much as I loved writing it. Dhanyavad! (Thank you)
Friday, May 14, 2010
Bollywood to Bagdogra
Siliguri was pretty depressing. After some quick internet time we decided to go get some food. Ended up in a sketchy road side place where the food was served cold. ABORT ABORT! We paid and left in search of somewhere a little more established. Going from the mountains and the cool weather, the beatiful landscapes and the fun times we had had with James, back to the hot and haggling desolate Siliguri was a bit of a mood killer. To pass the time and uplift our moods we decided to go see a Bollywood film, Badma$h Company. All in Hindi but like with most Bollywood films, pretty self explanatory. Funny and at least it brought up our spirits. Dinner at a place which was the indian equivalent with a fast food joint, complete with waiters in bow ties and hats.
After a long day and some major mood swings we decided to retire early to our hotel, 'New Dickyi's Hotel'. Should have known from the name that we should not have trusted it. Came back to the room to meet my worst nightmare. Cockaroaches. Yes, it was my worst nightmare come true. 5 hours later, with the power having gone out half way through our battle, 5 cockaroaches killed (all by me, daddy you would be proud), one would have walked in to find Ronit and I standing in the middle of the bed, with a sea of cockaroches dead on the floor, the bed moved to the middle of the room (away from all walls), windows closed and sheets covering the cracks to the doors. I was down to one shoe, all three others lying in corners where I had thrown them for the chance of a kill, with my tiny LED light flickering on and off as I was getting tired of holding the button down, Ronit cowering behind me, resigned to do this for the rest of the night. Thankfully around 1:00am I must have finished off the supply with a total of around 9 casualties. We went to sleep on guard for more, waking up randomly and flashing the light around the room afraid of what I would see. Needless to say it was NOT the best sleep I have had.
Flight to Delhi was fun with our mystery stop being in Gujurati. Finally in Delhi and ready to SHOP!!! Good sleep last night...thank god for no more cockaroaches. Oh and Daddy, do not get any ideas....this does not mean that I will be any more willing to kill cockaroaches when back at home. I will still call for you. This just means that, if forced, I will survive.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Such is Life
Had a very eventful jeep ride to Rinchenpong, Sikkim complete with a panicked 10 minutes when we all thought our bags had been stolen. Oh, turns out our jeep driver decided to go for a joy ride while we waited and played cards (with an interested crowd of spectators surrounding us). Serves us right for trusting him with our bags on top of the jeep. Ah well he came back to much laughter of the crowd of people who had witnessed the 5 mad tourists running around in a panic for their luggage.
Once there we had some beers, played some cards, checked into a the Mount View Hotel and went to check out the festival at 9pm which we were told ran till 11pm. Definitely an empty field when we got there. Didn't stay long....long enough, however, for James to get us roped into going in and sitting down in a 'traditional' Sikkimese hut with pink coloured rice stuck to our foreheads, and some tea. Oh and you have to give a donation after being practically forced to sit.
Dinner at the rooftop restaurant of our hotel took almost 2 hours to cook. It wasn't until our friend Lucas from Majorca, Spain went into the kitchen and found, of course, NOTHING happening for them to speed up the process. A quick dance session between our 19 year old Indian cook and Ronit to some pumping Indian music and then off to bed. Exhausted!
Woke up the next day after a loooong sleep in and got bed tea brought to us. This should definitely be made a custom back home. Excellent idea. :) Any takers?
Breakfast on the roof and then off to the festival!!! Seemed like any Fair with huts around the edges, a crowd sitting in bleachers, a dance floor, someone droning away over a microphone, and the smells of food wafting out of huts. Quickly we found out that this 'tourist festival' sees very few tourists. So it was not long before we were told/dragged into a hut, forced to sit, given Millet beer, some 'traditional' pancakes, some meat curry (which we kindly refused), salty tea (no sugar here, only salt, salt and more salt), and then presented with some silk scarves. Oh did I mention that the entire time we were being filmed and photographed? I don't know where the broadcast was going but it was NOT pretty. Perhaps it was some comedy show watching us poor tourists trying to suck down this yeasty drink, which will quickly get you drunk, while they attentively refill it with water after every sip. Worse still it turned out that we were to be charged 140 rupees. Yes this is cheap, but come on..... we didn't even want to go we were just being polite! Scammed again. We learned quickly to avoid any other huts, simply doing a quick scan from the door from then on.
After some lunch we went for a walk to the Resum Monestary. 400 steps up a hill later we made it. Another interesting trip, complete with leech bite on James. Beautiful monument. Too bad it was closed though.
Last night was spent drinking Gin and playing cards. Early to bed, early to rise, and....SUCCESS! We have seen the mountains!!!!! SPECTACULAR. Breathtaking view of the Kanchendzonga mountain range. Just in time for our trip back to Siliguri. Delhi tomorrow then home on the 17th. Can't believe it's coming to an end.
Once there we had some beers, played some cards, checked into a the Mount View Hotel and went to check out the festival at 9pm which we were told ran till 11pm. Definitely an empty field when we got there. Didn't stay long....long enough, however, for James to get us roped into going in and sitting down in a 'traditional' Sikkimese hut with pink coloured rice stuck to our foreheads, and some tea. Oh and you have to give a donation after being practically forced to sit.
Dinner at the rooftop restaurant of our hotel took almost 2 hours to cook. It wasn't until our friend Lucas from Majorca, Spain went into the kitchen and found, of course, NOTHING happening for them to speed up the process. A quick dance session between our 19 year old Indian cook and Ronit to some pumping Indian music and then off to bed. Exhausted!
Woke up the next day after a loooong sleep in and got bed tea brought to us. This should definitely be made a custom back home. Excellent idea. :) Any takers?
Breakfast on the roof and then off to the festival!!! Seemed like any Fair with huts around the edges, a crowd sitting in bleachers, a dance floor, someone droning away over a microphone, and the smells of food wafting out of huts. Quickly we found out that this 'tourist festival' sees very few tourists. So it was not long before we were told/dragged into a hut, forced to sit, given Millet beer, some 'traditional' pancakes, some meat curry (which we kindly refused), salty tea (no sugar here, only salt, salt and more salt), and then presented with some silk scarves. Oh did I mention that the entire time we were being filmed and photographed? I don't know where the broadcast was going but it was NOT pretty. Perhaps it was some comedy show watching us poor tourists trying to suck down this yeasty drink, which will quickly get you drunk, while they attentively refill it with water after every sip. Worse still it turned out that we were to be charged 140 rupees. Yes this is cheap, but come on..... we didn't even want to go we were just being polite! Scammed again. We learned quickly to avoid any other huts, simply doing a quick scan from the door from then on.
After some lunch we went for a walk to the Resum Monestary. 400 steps up a hill later we made it. Another interesting trip, complete with leech bite on James. Beautiful monument. Too bad it was closed though.
Last night was spent drinking Gin and playing cards. Early to bed, early to rise, and....SUCCESS! We have seen the mountains!!!!! SPECTACULAR. Breathtaking view of the Kanchendzonga mountain range. Just in time for our trip back to Siliguri. Delhi tomorrow then home on the 17th. Can't believe it's coming to an end.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Let's get together and gley sometime!
Just wanted to start this post with a tribute to the numerous misspellings which I have noticed along the way. Daddy, this is your paradise for laughing at others poor grammar and spelling. (P.s. I have recently realized that you are way more Indian than you think. All Indians have this insane need to be up at 5:00am and make AS MUCH noise as possible.....Mummy, I think you are going to have to accept it....its in the blood). Anyways, at breakfast this morning we found a photo album on a table with the following on the front, I swear I am not making this up, "Coy, Let's get together and gley sometime! We are the happinese freind. I have very pretty freind, lovely".
After breakfast we took a walk to our helpful tourist information center where we received a hand drawn highly detailed map of Pelling (basically useless to us as we are only here for two days but very helpful nonetheless). Later we went for a walk up to the Pemayangtse Monestary. Absolutely beautiful old monastary, one of the oldest in Sikkim, with beautiful hand painted walls and statues. Next we took a very scenic walk down to the Rabdentse Palace Ruins. I say scenic because at a cross roads (confused by our hand-drawn map) we asked an Indian construction worker whether the cobble stone path ahead of us would lead to the Ruins we could see on the hill, or if we should go the newly paved road to the right. We of course got the standard Indian head wobble which can mean, yes, no, maybe, I don't know, I don't speak English etc. etc. So after repeating the question getting a point towards the ruins and another head wobble we decided that must mean 'yes'. After climbing down a path, over a damn, across a construction site, up a hill, over a barbed wire fence and finally past the toilets and into the ruins we determined that yes, we had definitely gone the correct route. Hmm must learn how to translate that head wobble more accurately.
Climbed to the top of the highest ruin for an awesome photo opp. Would have been a great view if it were not for those damn clouds. On the other side as leaving via the more conventional route we found the sign warning that "misuse of the monument may be punishable by up to 3 months imprisonment or 5000 rupees OR BOTH!" Oops.
After a much nicer downhill walk back to a hotel we had some local Sikkim beer, masterfully poured and served by our 9 year old waiter Sutant (he told us we must call him Master Sutant), and played some cards. Off to dinner now. Rachimpong tomorrow for a once-a-year festival and a possible helicopter ride. Still no mountains....damn fog.
After breakfast we took a walk to our helpful tourist information center where we received a hand drawn highly detailed map of Pelling (basically useless to us as we are only here for two days but very helpful nonetheless). Later we went for a walk up to the Pemayangtse Monestary. Absolutely beautiful old monastary, one of the oldest in Sikkim, with beautiful hand painted walls and statues. Next we took a very scenic walk down to the Rabdentse Palace Ruins. I say scenic because at a cross roads (confused by our hand-drawn map) we asked an Indian construction worker whether the cobble stone path ahead of us would lead to the Ruins we could see on the hill, or if we should go the newly paved road to the right. We of course got the standard Indian head wobble which can mean, yes, no, maybe, I don't know, I don't speak English etc. etc. So after repeating the question getting a point towards the ruins and another head wobble we decided that must mean 'yes'. After climbing down a path, over a damn, across a construction site, up a hill, over a barbed wire fence and finally past the toilets and into the ruins we determined that yes, we had definitely gone the correct route. Hmm must learn how to translate that head wobble more accurately.
Climbed to the top of the highest ruin for an awesome photo opp. Would have been a great view if it were not for those damn clouds. On the other side as leaving via the more conventional route we found the sign warning that "misuse of the monument may be punishable by up to 3 months imprisonment or 5000 rupees OR BOTH!" Oops.
After a much nicer downhill walk back to a hotel we had some local Sikkim beer, masterfully poured and served by our 9 year old waiter Sutant (he told us we must call him Master Sutant), and played some cards. Off to dinner now. Rachimpong tomorrow for a once-a-year festival and a possible helicopter ride. Still no mountains....damn fog.
Saturday, May 8, 2010
It's always time for safety time
Been a little while since my last post. Not much to report and not much enthusiasm at the moment. I thought that making it through Varanasi and the toxic waters there I was in the clear, but I ended up getting sick in Darjeeling. Horrible. Definitely was the one crying in the corner of the bathroom "I want my mommy!!!!" Thankfully I have made some great friends who were there to bring me lots of medication, chocolate, mango, toast and comfort. So, Sikkim was postponed a day.
However, before the dreaded sickness occurred we had some great times. Took a comedic ride to grade 4 (really was more of grade 3 I am told by my Kiwi friend....then again what do they know ;)) white water rafting in Darjeeling, complete with popped tire en route. Note: If you are coming to India expecting luxurious rides...prepare to pay or get prepared. All of our jeep rides so far have found a way to manage at least 12 people per jeep. Three up with the driver, four in the middle, four in the back. And of course there is always the occasional 2 on top. Along the way we passed many signs saying "it is always time for safety time" which was quite ironic considering that we were 3 people sitting on the top of the jeep inside the raft, 5 people jammed in the back of a jeep, me with only a wooden peg locking me in (which actually fell out so was replaced with a TWIG from the side of the road....sorry mummy... I survived). Oh and did I mention that one of our guides rode the rest of the way (after the tire was replaced using a rock as a jack) on the hood of the car holding onto a rope.....along high mountain paths with no guard rails........going at least 50 kmph ....with only a horn to warn people coming the opposite direction. Bermudian roads are going to be a tame after here. Another note, indicators here are not used for the traditional purpose of indicating a turn. No, here they are used to indicate to the person behind you when it is safe to pass....along with a casual hand out the window to warn if something is barreling around the corner. Ridiculous? Nah....this is India!
Anyways, white water rafting was lots of fun, especially making fun of our two 15 year old guides. One with his less enthusiastic commands of "fooorward", 'back foorward" and the occasional "hard forward". Always given in a monotone calm indian-accented voice. I think he caught on when we started mimicking him so he eventually jumped over and shouted "SWIMMING" with much more life. Great fun. Swallowed a bit too much water I reckon, though.....which is probably why I got sick. Ugh.
Have had tons of tea in Darjeeling, and the best momo's EVER! The kind little lady at the end of the street in Chowrasta with a little pull up bench in front of her stall. The ladies there making their chowmein buns with ketchup sauce, their paranthas (veg), and momo's. Handmade, these momos melt in your mouth. The woman could clearly see how delirious with happiness I was as she kept smiling and nodding at me eventually even telling me the ingredients. I WILL replicate these at home.
Finally made it to Pelling today after another packed jeep ride with me in the fetal position most of the way. Two days here and then Yuksom and then Gangtok. Come on mountains!!!!!!
However, before the dreaded sickness occurred we had some great times. Took a comedic ride to grade 4 (really was more of grade 3 I am told by my Kiwi friend....then again what do they know ;)) white water rafting in Darjeeling, complete with popped tire en route. Note: If you are coming to India expecting luxurious rides...prepare to pay or get prepared. All of our jeep rides so far have found a way to manage at least 12 people per jeep. Three up with the driver, four in the middle, four in the back. And of course there is always the occasional 2 on top. Along the way we passed many signs saying "it is always time for safety time" which was quite ironic considering that we were 3 people sitting on the top of the jeep inside the raft, 5 people jammed in the back of a jeep, me with only a wooden peg locking me in (which actually fell out so was replaced with a TWIG from the side of the road....sorry mummy... I survived). Oh and did I mention that one of our guides rode the rest of the way (after the tire was replaced using a rock as a jack) on the hood of the car holding onto a rope.....along high mountain paths with no guard rails........going at least 50 kmph ....with only a horn to warn people coming the opposite direction. Bermudian roads are going to be a tame after here. Another note, indicators here are not used for the traditional purpose of indicating a turn. No, here they are used to indicate to the person behind you when it is safe to pass....along with a casual hand out the window to warn if something is barreling around the corner. Ridiculous? Nah....this is India!
Anyways, white water rafting was lots of fun, especially making fun of our two 15 year old guides. One with his less enthusiastic commands of "fooorward", 'back foorward" and the occasional "hard forward". Always given in a monotone calm indian-accented voice. I think he caught on when we started mimicking him so he eventually jumped over and shouted "SWIMMING" with much more life. Great fun. Swallowed a bit too much water I reckon, though.....which is probably why I got sick. Ugh.
Have had tons of tea in Darjeeling, and the best momo's EVER! The kind little lady at the end of the street in Chowrasta with a little pull up bench in front of her stall. The ladies there making their chowmein buns with ketchup sauce, their paranthas (veg), and momo's. Handmade, these momos melt in your mouth. The woman could clearly see how delirious with happiness I was as she kept smiling and nodding at me eventually even telling me the ingredients. I WILL replicate these at home.
Finally made it to Pelling today after another packed jeep ride with me in the fetal position most of the way. Two days here and then Yuksom and then Gangtok. Come on mountains!!!!!!
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Solace from the Sun
Lots to report in the last few days. Still in Darjeeling enjoying the cooler climate and more relaxed attitude. The majority of the people here are Indian tourists so we are no longer completely foreign. There are also a lot of people dressed in more modern western clothing so we do not look too of place.
We have met up with other back packers, some we met in Kolkata, some Ronit knows from her schooling, and some we met here in Glenary's. So have had lots of group meals and interesting conversations.
Woke up at 3:50am yesterday morning to head to Tiger Hill in Ghum to see the sunrise and the mountains. Of course, as is typical of Darjeeling, when we got there a fog descended over the hills and blocked even the sun from view. Got one or two nice photo's anyways. We also got photographed a couple times by different Indian tourists (there were hundreds of them on the hill). One family even asked to pose with Ronit and Sarah as though they were celebrities.
Went for a walk down to see Green Zone at the theatre. Funny that we went to buy a cd for Ronit and saw packages of about 50 different movies, all about 100 rupees each. However, when we got to the movie theatre security was so tight we were asked to check our camera batteries at the desk. Clearly, that plan is working well.....especially since if I had been trying to pirate the movie I could have simply pulled out my backup battery that I keep in my bag. Hmm.....plan failed, no?
Went to the pub for a few beers, some thai food, some more street momo's and had my first day of meat. Had some Schezuan chicken, some pork dish, another beef dish (all shared between the guys and me). Even had my first sweet lassi! Day later so I think I am in the clear, PHEW!
Still looking out for the illusive mountain's but thinking of heading to Sikkim on Friday. Sure to see some there....I hope.
Just changed into cooler clothes as the sun was beating down. Now of course, having sat at a computer for the past 30 minutes, it is pouring rain. This is just as bad as island weather!
Time for some lunch. More street momo's and shaphalay's? Mmmm cabbage overload.
We have met up with other back packers, some we met in Kolkata, some Ronit knows from her schooling, and some we met here in Glenary's. So have had lots of group meals and interesting conversations.
Woke up at 3:50am yesterday morning to head to Tiger Hill in Ghum to see the sunrise and the mountains. Of course, as is typical of Darjeeling, when we got there a fog descended over the hills and blocked even the sun from view. Got one or two nice photo's anyways. We also got photographed a couple times by different Indian tourists (there were hundreds of them on the hill). One family even asked to pose with Ronit and Sarah as though they were celebrities.
Went for a walk down to see Green Zone at the theatre. Funny that we went to buy a cd for Ronit and saw packages of about 50 different movies, all about 100 rupees each. However, when we got to the movie theatre security was so tight we were asked to check our camera batteries at the desk. Clearly, that plan is working well.....especially since if I had been trying to pirate the movie I could have simply pulled out my backup battery that I keep in my bag. Hmm.....plan failed, no?
Went to the pub for a few beers, some thai food, some more street momo's and had my first day of meat. Had some Schezuan chicken, some pork dish, another beef dish (all shared between the guys and me). Even had my first sweet lassi! Day later so I think I am in the clear, PHEW!
Still looking out for the illusive mountain's but thinking of heading to Sikkim on Friday. Sure to see some there....I hope.
Just changed into cooler clothes as the sun was beating down. Now of course, having sat at a computer for the past 30 minutes, it is pouring rain. This is just as bad as island weather!
Time for some lunch. More street momo's and shaphalay's? Mmmm cabbage overload.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Petrichor
Dinner last night was amazing. At the time (until today) it was the best meal we had had in Darjeeling. I can't remember if I described it already but it is an arts/crafts/breakfast/lunch/dinner place run out of the living room of an artsy couple. We got homemade hummus (amazing) and some Vegetarian Thali with hot chocolate.
Woke up early this morning to have breakfast at the rooftop of the hotel and then headed down to check out the Toy Train. Ended up taking a jeep guided tour to see the Japanese peace pagoda (beautiful and peaceful), the Tibetan Refugee Camp (did not realise how ignorant I was on the subject until getting here), Ava's Art Gallery (uh.....small but interesting) and the Tea Garden. It was a great way to spend the morning.
Back in Darjeeling we decided to brave the street food and had the second best meal since getting here. We had a pancake-calzone-style fried dish with cabbage stuffing then fried in oil (yes you could fry cardboard and it would taste good but this was seriously amazing). Also had some fresh onion-bahji type balls fried with some chili sauce and some freshly made (in front of our eyes) veg-momos....the best we have had since getting here. Definitely worth the risk of getting sick (knock on wood).
After stuffing our faces with more than was necessary (and still only spending 25 rupees) we headed back to the (drawing a blank now) place for tea and goodies until 3pm when their bar downstairs opened the open mic! Awesome hearing some western songs sung (with a slight accent) but still very well done. Football on the tv, people smoking and drinking....could have been in a bar anywhere in the world.
Met up with Ronit's friend Michelle and are off to dinner in a bit.
Woke up early this morning to have breakfast at the rooftop of the hotel and then headed down to check out the Toy Train. Ended up taking a jeep guided tour to see the Japanese peace pagoda (beautiful and peaceful), the Tibetan Refugee Camp (did not realise how ignorant I was on the subject until getting here), Ava's Art Gallery (uh.....small but interesting) and the Tea Garden. It was a great way to spend the morning.
Back in Darjeeling we decided to brave the street food and had the second best meal since getting here. We had a pancake-calzone-style fried dish with cabbage stuffing then fried in oil (yes you could fry cardboard and it would taste good but this was seriously amazing). Also had some fresh onion-bahji type balls fried with some chili sauce and some freshly made (in front of our eyes) veg-momos....the best we have had since getting here. Definitely worth the risk of getting sick (knock on wood).
After stuffing our faces with more than was necessary (and still only spending 25 rupees) we headed back to the (drawing a blank now) place for tea and goodies until 3pm when their bar downstairs opened the open mic! Awesome hearing some western songs sung (with a slight accent) but still very well done. Football on the tv, people smoking and drinking....could have been in a bar anywhere in the world.
Met up with Ronit's friend Michelle and are off to dinner in a bit.
Friday, April 30, 2010
Tea at Harrod's
Still trying to find some people to go on the trek with. In the meantime we walked down to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) and the Zoo! Saw a snow leopard, tigers, pheasants, red pandas, some fish, a black bear....and more. Interesting but pretty typical of a zoo.
Next we walked down to the bottom of the mountain to the Happy Valley Tea Plantation. Not till I got there and saw all the big signs for Harrod's did I realise that this tea plantation provides solely to Harrod's. Very interesting seeing the process. Got rained on so was a tad grumpy, especially since the 30 minute walk back was entirely uphill. Very steep. Very tired. Will definitely sleep well tonight after a nice homemade meal at the next door cafe-out-of-home (which we have named 'the Nook').
Not much else to report. Booked our flight from Bagdogra to Delhi for the 13th of May so we have a few days before my flight home on the 17th! Can't imagine leaving!
Thursday, April 29, 2010
This is India?
Ronit's catch phrase which I quickly picked up was 'this is India!', or TII for short, to describe any situation which is unique to India. For example, only half of what is on the menu can be ordered at any given time..."this is India!"
Darjeeling is actually cold, and not just cold because I personally am always cold, but cold compared to everywhere else we have been to in India so far (1 degree celcius, 34 farenheit). We actually needed the hot water shower provided by our hotel (only available 6:30-7:30pm because of water shortages). So many times we have to remind ourselves that this IS still India! The strong Nepalese influence in the area is very evident from the dress, the people, the food and the general beauty of the place. I am definitely very much at home here. We realized we are staying, for some unknown reason, at the hotel the farthest the hill (there is literally nothing after us) so we are thinking of moving closer down to activity tomorrow. When the power in the town went off last night it was definitely creepy to walk up the hill with our measly small flash lights (mine which no longer works properly after visiting the cave....no that is not the fault of the gremlin, Raiza!)
We had breakfast at a tiny cafe which is right out of the living room of a family of artists. They make their own crafts and sell them from their living room. French toast on brown bread with fresh cream anyone? Amazing and so friendly. We were the only ones there but it felt really homey. Even if it is at the top of the hill we will definitely be going back.
Booking our trek today (4 days 3 nights) along with two other travelers we met, hopefully to start tomorrow when the rain stops.
We are going to spend the day planning and walking around a bit more, eating and drinking tea in a bar/bakery/cafe, The Gramery, with a 180 degree view of the clouds and mountains. Mmmm tea.....
Darjeeling is actually cold, and not just cold because I personally am always cold, but cold compared to everywhere else we have been to in India so far (1 degree celcius, 34 farenheit). We actually needed the hot water shower provided by our hotel (only available 6:30-7:30pm because of water shortages). So many times we have to remind ourselves that this IS still India! The strong Nepalese influence in the area is very evident from the dress, the people, the food and the general beauty of the place. I am definitely very much at home here. We realized we are staying, for some unknown reason, at the hotel the farthest the hill (there is literally nothing after us) so we are thinking of moving closer down to activity tomorrow. When the power in the town went off last night it was definitely creepy to walk up the hill with our measly small flash lights (mine which no longer works properly after visiting the cave....no that is not the fault of the gremlin, Raiza!)
We had breakfast at a tiny cafe which is right out of the living room of a family of artists. They make their own crafts and sell them from their living room. French toast on brown bread with fresh cream anyone? Amazing and so friendly. We were the only ones there but it felt really homey. Even if it is at the top of the hill we will definitely be going back.
Booking our trek today (4 days 3 nights) along with two other travelers we met, hopefully to start tomorrow when the rain stops.
We are going to spend the day planning and walking around a bit more, eating and drinking tea in a bar/bakery/cafe, The Gramery, with a 180 degree view of the clouds and mountains. Mmmm tea.....
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Sab Kuch Milega
Sab Kuch Milega : Anything is possible (Bengali).
The title of this post is very true to India and especially to the last day and a half. After a nice dinner with about 10 other fellow tourists (one of which I found to have worked at Renaissance Re for the past year and a half in Bermuda), taking shelter from a sudden freak cyclone and rain shower, we headed out to the train station to take our overnight train to Darjeeling. Or so we thought. The train arrived on time (SHOCK!), we found our seats right away (so far so good), seats were clean....we settled in and by 11pm I was fast asleep....we should have known it was too good to be true. 10 minutes later we were awoken to yells and angry voices as we found out that the entire sleeper car was numbered incorrectly. So while our seats said they were seats 71 and 72 they were actually 61 and 62. After an enormous amount of confusion everyone was settled in their correct seats.
Our train was supposed to get in at 9:00am so when I awoke at 6:00am to a stopped train I was mildly confused. I stepped outside to take a look around and found out from a very kind English speaking man that ....yes the strike had happened and we would be stopped at this random station 'Harishchandrapur' 2 hours from NJP for.....TWELVE HOURS! With only a pancake, 1 1/2 bananas each, and some very dry cookies which by this time we were already sick to death of we would be stuck here. After many naps, card games, finishing my magazine and half of my book, dead ipod we finally left at 5:30....only to stop again for half an hour two stops later.
Generally in India so far we have found that the majority of the Indian people are curious but kind, they will stare but they are not rude. However you learn quickly that 75% of the people who talk to you simply want to convince you to buy their product, come to their restaurant, or simply steal from you. You learn quickly when to not make eye contact, when to simply say 'NAHI!' (no - spelling not sure), walk determinately away, and maybe add in a casual hand flick.
On this train, with no food, all stranded together we found the amazing generosity of the people. Two men made sure we had plenty of water, giving us some of their personal stash of packaged cakes, helped us figure out a new plan to get to Darjeeling (we would have to overnight before our 3hr jeep ride to Darjeeling), and gave us their personal cell numbers and email in case we needed help. A family with three little boys and a girl shared with us all the food that they had to eat. It was definitely the best outcome possible when stuck in that type of situation. We were extremely grateful.
The jeep ride to Darjeeling was amazing. Spectacular! Imagine, if you will, a jeep (with 10 people crammed in) on Bermuda roads, with cliffs on either side, winding corners worse than Harbour Road, going at about 50 km per hour! Best moment was stopping along the way at a rest stop where we had our first real meal since before our trip to the 'train-with-no-end-in-sight' where we had some fresh Veg Momo's (steamed dumplings) with chili sauce. Paul, I took a picture so don't worry you can feel fully jealous when I upload ;).
We missed the girls by 3 hours to go on the trek so resting here for a few days trying to find some more people to go with, figure out details etc. and and see the city.
Entire trip here was definitely proof that anything is possible, and when rushed for time, it will.
The title of this post is very true to India and especially to the last day and a half. After a nice dinner with about 10 other fellow tourists (one of which I found to have worked at Renaissance Re for the past year and a half in Bermuda), taking shelter from a sudden freak cyclone and rain shower, we headed out to the train station to take our overnight train to Darjeeling. Or so we thought. The train arrived on time (SHOCK!), we found our seats right away (so far so good), seats were clean....we settled in and by 11pm I was fast asleep....we should have known it was too good to be true. 10 minutes later we were awoken to yells and angry voices as we found out that the entire sleeper car was numbered incorrectly. So while our seats said they were seats 71 and 72 they were actually 61 and 62. After an enormous amount of confusion everyone was settled in their correct seats.
Our train was supposed to get in at 9:00am so when I awoke at 6:00am to a stopped train I was mildly confused. I stepped outside to take a look around and found out from a very kind English speaking man that ....yes the strike had happened and we would be stopped at this random station 'Harishchandrapur' 2 hours from NJP for.....TWELVE HOURS! With only a pancake, 1 1/2 bananas each, and some very dry cookies which by this time we were already sick to death of we would be stuck here. After many naps, card games, finishing my magazine and half of my book, dead ipod we finally left at 5:30....only to stop again for half an hour two stops later.
Generally in India so far we have found that the majority of the Indian people are curious but kind, they will stare but they are not rude. However you learn quickly that 75% of the people who talk to you simply want to convince you to buy their product, come to their restaurant, or simply steal from you. You learn quickly when to not make eye contact, when to simply say 'NAHI!' (no - spelling not sure), walk determinately away, and maybe add in a casual hand flick.
On this train, with no food, all stranded together we found the amazing generosity of the people. Two men made sure we had plenty of water, giving us some of their personal stash of packaged cakes, helped us figure out a new plan to get to Darjeeling (we would have to overnight before our 3hr jeep ride to Darjeeling), and gave us their personal cell numbers and email in case we needed help. A family with three little boys and a girl shared with us all the food that they had to eat. It was definitely the best outcome possible when stuck in that type of situation. We were extremely grateful.
The jeep ride to Darjeeling was amazing. Spectacular! Imagine, if you will, a jeep (with 10 people crammed in) on Bermuda roads, with cliffs on either side, winding corners worse than Harbour Road, going at about 50 km per hour! Best moment was stopping along the way at a rest stop where we had our first real meal since before our trip to the 'train-with-no-end-in-sight' where we had some fresh Veg Momo's (steamed dumplings) with chili sauce. Paul, I took a picture so don't worry you can feel fully jealous when I upload ;).
We missed the girls by 3 hours to go on the trek so resting here for a few days trying to find some more people to go with, figure out details etc. and and see the city.
Entire trip here was definitely proof that anything is possible, and when rushed for time, it will.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Flowers, flowers everywhere!
Not much to write in this one as it has only been a day. Last night after some much needed internet time we met up with some fellow travelers we met through volunteering at Mother Theresa's for a chat and some coffee and to watch the Cricket finals. Cricket news flash: the supposed 'better team' of Mumbai was beat by Chennai! Hungry, I tried to order a pancake and some chai tea but as is usual in India at 8 o'clock they stopped serving most stuff. Also common here, only half of what is on the menu is actually available.
Nice sleep in this morning until about 9:15 and then met up with some friends at 'Raj's Spanish Cafe' for breakfast: a chocolate pancake (which is more like a crepe) a cappuccino (first coffee since Bermuda...definitely gave me a caffeine buzz) and some fruit muesli with curd.
After checking out of our hotels we went for a trip down to the Flower Market by the Howrah Bridge. Thousands of flowers under shelter. Could have taken a million photos. Every time we took a photo some of the merchants there would be a crowd of people and we would have to show the person the photo. They really seem to enjoy getting their photo taken, some were even posing for us!
The bus ride back to our area was a long and difficult ride simply for the fact that I have never had to pee so badly. I know one of the three pieces of advice I was given at Good Friday lunch at Aunt Sony's was #2 USE THE BATHROOM BEFORE YOU LEAVE (#1 Don't tip, #3 don't drink the water...or was it don't eat street food?....there were so many). Well, I'm afraid that doesn't help if you drink two litres of water after that time. The starting and stopping of the bus, with them shutting off the motor when the traffic was really slow, was excruciating. I began looking out at the parks and contemplating whether I could run to a bush and make it back in time. My friends were all very understanding and made it their mission to help me find somewhere as soon as we got off. 5 mad tourists running through the streets in search of a restaurant, a hotel, a bush, ANYTHING must have looked strange.
After great relief we had lunch at Blue Sky Cafe (a delicious vegetable curry with paneer and some butter naan). Going to meet up with the other tourists for dinner before our train at 10:55 to Darjeeling.
Nice sleep in this morning until about 9:15 and then met up with some friends at 'Raj's Spanish Cafe' for breakfast: a chocolate pancake (which is more like a crepe) a cappuccino (first coffee since Bermuda...definitely gave me a caffeine buzz) and some fruit muesli with curd.
After checking out of our hotels we went for a trip down to the Flower Market by the Howrah Bridge. Thousands of flowers under shelter. Could have taken a million photos. Every time we took a photo some of the merchants there would be a crowd of people and we would have to show the person the photo. They really seem to enjoy getting their photo taken, some were even posing for us!
The bus ride back to our area was a long and difficult ride simply for the fact that I have never had to pee so badly. I know one of the three pieces of advice I was given at Good Friday lunch at Aunt Sony's was #2 USE THE BATHROOM BEFORE YOU LEAVE (#1 Don't tip, #3 don't drink the water...or was it don't eat street food?....there were so many). Well, I'm afraid that doesn't help if you drink two litres of water after that time. The starting and stopping of the bus, with them shutting off the motor when the traffic was really slow, was excruciating. I began looking out at the parks and contemplating whether I could run to a bush and make it back in time. My friends were all very understanding and made it their mission to help me find somewhere as soon as we got off. 5 mad tourists running through the streets in search of a restaurant, a hotel, a bush, ANYTHING must have looked strange.
After great relief we had lunch at Blue Sky Cafe (a delicious vegetable curry with paneer and some butter naan). Going to meet up with the other tourists for dinner before our train at 10:55 to Darjeeling.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Imagination, life is your creation!
We were placed at Mother Theresa's Missionary Charity Hospice called Prem Dam (not sure of spelling) for our two days of volunteering. The mornings were spent washing clothes in an assembly line dunking the clothes, ringing, dunking in the next station, ringing them out, then carrying the buckets full of clothes and bed sheets to the roofs to dry. We made beds, brushed hair, painted nails, and listened to them when they wanted something (not that we could understand). We helped serve lunch, feeding those who could not feed themselves, helped them to bed and then washed all the dishes. All the sister's and other staff would point at us and shout "Auntie! Auntie!" whenever they wanted us to do something. Most of the time we would be pointed in the general direction of something and were expected to understand what we were supposed to do. The language barrier was definitely a problem, even among volunteers as some were from Korea, Japan, China, and France (got to practice my high school french out woohoo). Despite that, however, it was a really rewarding experience and I would definitely come for longer next time. Both times leaving the house we grabbed rickshaws (somehow ending up with the same driver both times) stuffing about six of us into the small compartments and getting thrown from side to side as the driver swerved in tune with Barbie Girl by Aqualung (hence the title of this blog) with us girls singing on top of our lungs along the way. Needless to say we got a lot of stares.
Our first afternoon off we spent being tourists of Kolkata. We saw the Indian Museum (lots of fossils, rocks and animals), the Institute of Fine Arts (my favourite piece one of an Indian woman Andy Warhol style), the Victoria Memorial, and the Planetarium (no I didn't fall asleep I was just "resting my eyes" - that is a tribute to Grandma Devi for those who do not know as I definitely fell asleep...it had been a long day, ok).
Last night after a long day of volunteering we met up with Tim and Eli (friends of Ronit) and had dinner as they watched the third final cricket game (go Bangalore) and then went to sit on the roof of their hotel while they passed around a guitar playing any songs they new. One of the tourists staying there was a German couple with whom we all talked about music and other general topics. Ouvre (not sure of spelling) was so enthusiastic about music we asked if he played anything. His answer was perfect, "I not very good at playing instrument, but I am a professional listener. The world needs listeners too".
Note to all readers, be aware when entering your hotel room that on the wall you will not find just one light switch. No, you will find about 20 unmarked identical switches and will proceed to press each one eveyr time until you get a hang of which turns on the lights and the fan. You will then find that indian men will appear at your door offering their services, asking to do your laundry or whether you have eaten. No, you do not smell, and they are not worried about your health. Do not get irritated. You have simply been pressing the buzzer for help over and over and over.
Off to Darjeeling tomorrow to start our 7 day trek during which we are to see Everest and K2.
Our first afternoon off we spent being tourists of Kolkata. We saw the Indian Museum (lots of fossils, rocks and animals), the Institute of Fine Arts (my favourite piece one of an Indian woman Andy Warhol style), the Victoria Memorial, and the Planetarium (no I didn't fall asleep I was just "resting my eyes" - that is a tribute to Grandma Devi for those who do not know as I definitely fell asleep...it had been a long day, ok).
Last night after a long day of volunteering we met up with Tim and Eli (friends of Ronit) and had dinner as they watched the third final cricket game (go Bangalore) and then went to sit on the roof of their hotel while they passed around a guitar playing any songs they new. One of the tourists staying there was a German couple with whom we all talked about music and other general topics. Ouvre (not sure of spelling) was so enthusiastic about music we asked if he played anything. His answer was perfect, "I not very good at playing instrument, but I am a professional listener. The world needs listeners too".
Note to all readers, be aware when entering your hotel room that on the wall you will not find just one light switch. No, you will find about 20 unmarked identical switches and will proceed to press each one eveyr time until you get a hang of which turns on the lights and the fan. You will then find that indian men will appear at your door offering their services, asking to do your laundry or whether you have eaten. No, you do not smell, and they are not worried about your health. Do not get irritated. You have simply been pressing the buzzer for help over and over and over.
Off to Darjeeling tomorrow to start our 7 day trek during which we are to see Everest and K2.
Friday, April 23, 2010
This is gift from India!
The rest of our time in Varanasi was beautiful and surreal. Walking along the Ganges river seeing the many women and men washing, bathing, praying, the goats and cows roaming the streets, all the while knowing that my grandparents ashes were scattered here. I am sure you all mostly know that I am not religious or particularly spiritual but being there was more than a little moving.
We went to the Burning Ghat and saw a few processions of bodies, heavily decorated with gold and colourful drapings, being carried down to the fires. Even though I felt like I was burning myself in the heat it was kind of beautiful and touching rather than scary or disturbing as one may think.
In the morning we woke at 5:00am to take an early boat ride across the ghats to Assi Ghat and watched the sun rise over the water. Once at Assi ghat (after much bargaining of the price of the trip) we met Ronit's friend Tessa for morning yoga. Definitely an all-white (or European...sorry mummy but everyone here who is not Indian is referred to as 'white' lol) crowd but still amazing.
The yoga instructor asked at the start whether either of us had any "problems with body". Ronit explained that she had been coughing a lot and he chuckled and responded "yes, many Europeans get this when come to India. This is gift from India!!"
Our train to Calcutta (old name)/ Kolkata (new name) was delayed by 2 hours so after much confusion and irritation we were on our overnight train. Top sleeper bunks and a pretty quiet ride. Got to see a lot of the rural India as we passed, lots of farm land, grass huts, and small (5-10 houses) towns. Beautiful lands!
Now in Kolkata, having sweated a few extra pounds off (don't worry mummy drinking lots of water...I may actually drink more than you do a day now xo), we have visited the Mother Theresa's Missionary house where we will be volunteering for the next two mornings at one of their hospices. Should be a very interesting experience. We have met up with Ronit's friend Tim and Eli and will be watching the final (or third place...we arent sure which) cricket match at a 'pub' later tonight.
Kolkata for the next 3 nights and then off on Monday night to Darjeeling for our 7 day trek!
We went to the Burning Ghat and saw a few processions of bodies, heavily decorated with gold and colourful drapings, being carried down to the fires. Even though I felt like I was burning myself in the heat it was kind of beautiful and touching rather than scary or disturbing as one may think.
In the morning we woke at 5:00am to take an early boat ride across the ghats to Assi Ghat and watched the sun rise over the water. Once at Assi ghat (after much bargaining of the price of the trip) we met Ronit's friend Tessa for morning yoga. Definitely an all-white (or European...sorry mummy but everyone here who is not Indian is referred to as 'white' lol) crowd but still amazing.
The yoga instructor asked at the start whether either of us had any "problems with body". Ronit explained that she had been coughing a lot and he chuckled and responded "yes, many Europeans get this when come to India. This is gift from India!!"
Our train to Calcutta (old name)/ Kolkata (new name) was delayed by 2 hours so after much confusion and irritation we were on our overnight train. Top sleeper bunks and a pretty quiet ride. Got to see a lot of the rural India as we passed, lots of farm land, grass huts, and small (5-10 houses) towns. Beautiful lands!
Now in Kolkata, having sweated a few extra pounds off (don't worry mummy drinking lots of water...I may actually drink more than you do a day now xo), we have visited the Mother Theresa's Missionary house where we will be volunteering for the next two mornings at one of their hospices. Should be a very interesting experience. We have met up with Ronit's friend Tim and Eli and will be watching the final (or third place...we arent sure which) cricket match at a 'pub' later tonight.
Kolkata for the next 3 nights and then off on Monday night to Darjeeling for our 7 day trek!
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Glamour and Grit
For the rest of our time in Agra we spent upstairs in Yash Cafe overlooking the streets eating some great indian food, and taking some long naps. Wandered the streets for a bit to kill time before our 11:30pm train only to find that tourists are not really welcome in the back streets. We had kids yelling "HI!!! HI!!!", men telling us we were going the wrong way and "beware! dog rabbid!!" What with that and the consistent pointing and laughing at us by all the girls we passed we decided maybe we should stick to the tourist area.
Took my first sleeper class train last night. It was hot and sweaty until the air cooled but we met some very interesting Indian men who, when I pulled out my glamour to pass the time, lept with attention and asked to look at it. What an image of these men reading my Glamour magazine!
Had an embarassing blonde moment when I went to the bathroom on the train and locked myself inside. Panicked and started banging on the door for someone to let me out. I am sorry I did not know that the outside latch was connected to the inside latch! Doigt what a tourist I make!
In Varanasi we are staying at the Alka Hotel which is a very popular backpacker spot (we have already seen two couples which we had seen in Agra here). Went to the German Bakery for lunch and had some pizza (yeah yeah in India I should be eating Indian...but its a nice change of pace and it supports an NGO, helps the children and their workers, and the mothers, has tons of classes and brings in Organic foods from the Nepalese area). Great food, great atmosphere, great place. We got to lounge on the mats while we ate and relaxed inside away from the heat.
Quick stop here in Varanasi overnight and then it is off to Kolkata tomorrow!
Quick note as I am running out of time at this Internet Cafe...if we weren't already a focal staring point for all Indians I, it turns out, am even more so as everyone asks me "are you indian?" Funny that I have always thought of myself as half indian but here in India I considered my self white, yet the locals always see Indian. After my toilet incident I am sure they were quick to change their minds though. I have given up saying I am from Bermuda and have just started saying America so I can avoid having to explain over and over where and what Bermuda is.
Ok time is up!!
Took my first sleeper class train last night. It was hot and sweaty until the air cooled but we met some very interesting Indian men who, when I pulled out my glamour to pass the time, lept with attention and asked to look at it. What an image of these men reading my Glamour magazine!
Had an embarassing blonde moment when I went to the bathroom on the train and locked myself inside. Panicked and started banging on the door for someone to let me out. I am sorry I did not know that the outside latch was connected to the inside latch! Doigt what a tourist I make!
In Varanasi we are staying at the Alka Hotel which is a very popular backpacker spot (we have already seen two couples which we had seen in Agra here). Went to the German Bakery for lunch and had some pizza (yeah yeah in India I should be eating Indian...but its a nice change of pace and it supports an NGO, helps the children and their workers, and the mothers, has tons of classes and brings in Organic foods from the Nepalese area). Great food, great atmosphere, great place. We got to lounge on the mats while we ate and relaxed inside away from the heat.
Quick stop here in Varanasi overnight and then it is off to Kolkata tomorrow!
Quick note as I am running out of time at this Internet Cafe...if we weren't already a focal staring point for all Indians I, it turns out, am even more so as everyone asks me "are you indian?" Funny that I have always thought of myself as half indian but here in India I considered my self white, yet the locals always see Indian. After my toilet incident I am sure they were quick to change their minds though. I have given up saying I am from Bermuda and have just started saying America so I can avoid having to explain over and over where and what Bermuda is.
Ok time is up!!
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Agra and the Taj Majal
Feeling much better here today. Yesterday we took a train from Delhi to Agra which holds the Taj Mahal! Got in about 10:00pm and thankfully were able to get a room in a very comfortable hotel.
We decided to get an early start to the day at 5:00am so we could beat the lines at the Taj Mahal and see some of the sunrise. Had a quick shower at which point the power went out. Showering in a dark, windowless bathroom...FUN! So we showered, dressed and packed in the dark with our little LED lights to guide us.
The Taj Mahal was amazing and beautiful. Lots of not-unique photos of course but who cares ...I was still there! Made me think of grandma Devi and Grandpa Mohan and the picture I have of them at the Taj Mahal on my bulletin board in my room.
Exhausted, Ronit and I decided to take a quick nap on a bench so when we woke up we woke to the sight of the Taj Mahal.
First meal in India was on top of a rooftop cafe...Dal Masala and some buttered chappati...YUM. Thank goodness I was able to eat finally! We are taking it easy today until our 11:30pm overnight train out of Agra to Varanasi where we are meeting up with Ronit's friend Tessa.
We decided to get an early start to the day at 5:00am so we could beat the lines at the Taj Mahal and see some of the sunrise. Had a quick shower at which point the power went out. Showering in a dark, windowless bathroom...FUN! So we showered, dressed and packed in the dark with our little LED lights to guide us.
The Taj Mahal was amazing and beautiful. Lots of not-unique photos of course but who cares ...I was still there! Made me think of grandma Devi and Grandpa Mohan and the picture I have of them at the Taj Mahal on my bulletin board in my room.
Exhausted, Ronit and I decided to take a quick nap on a bench so when we woke up we woke to the sight of the Taj Mahal.
First meal in India was on top of a rooftop cafe...Dal Masala and some buttered chappati...YUM. Thank goodness I was able to eat finally! We are taking it easy today until our 11:30pm overnight train out of Agra to Varanasi where we are meeting up with Ronit's friend Tessa.
Monday, April 19, 2010
Feeling Hot Hot Hot
In preparation for my trip over here I checked the flight path to see if my flight would be going near the ash cloud. Well, they lied to me! Not till I got on the plane and checked on my 'flight path' screen did I find out that we would be flying directly across Europe instead of over Africa as the website said....hmmm.
After some major musical chairs with the other people on the plane to accomodate the many babies who were booked to sit by themselves we were all off for the 14 hour flight (which ended up actually being 15). Met a guy from Boston and a mother and her kid who decided to cry the entire way.
Here at last we spent a great night in the lovely air conditioned Hotel Ajanta. Woke up at 4:40 and was unable to go back to sleep until about 9:00am. As we got ready for the day we saw a semi-parade from our balcony go by complete with man throwing rice, trumpets, and women in colourful sari's. Went to Karen's roof top restaurant for breakfast....I ordered jam toast but was unfortunately unable to eat it. Not so good at keeping things down this morning...lets just leave it at that.
Off on the 5:30pm train to Agra tonight to see the Taj Mahal tomorrow morning.
Definitely feeling the heat, the pollution, the smell and the jetlag. I am sure I will adjust soon....I hope I adjust soon, at least.
After some major musical chairs with the other people on the plane to accomodate the many babies who were booked to sit by themselves we were all off for the 14 hour flight (which ended up actually being 15). Met a guy from Boston and a mother and her kid who decided to cry the entire way.
Here at last we spent a great night in the lovely air conditioned Hotel Ajanta. Woke up at 4:40 and was unable to go back to sleep until about 9:00am. As we got ready for the day we saw a semi-parade from our balcony go by complete with man throwing rice, trumpets, and women in colourful sari's. Went to Karen's roof top restaurant for breakfast....I ordered jam toast but was unfortunately unable to eat it. Not so good at keeping things down this morning...lets just leave it at that.
Off on the 5:30pm train to Agra tonight to see the Taj Mahal tomorrow morning.
Definitely feeling the heat, the pollution, the smell and the jetlag. I am sure I will adjust soon....I hope I adjust soon, at least.
Friday, April 16, 2010
The Toothless Traveller
Well, not toothless but with one less, I WILL be heading out tomorrow....as long as my flight isn't cancelled due to the volcano ash. Sometimes I wonder what the deal with my luck is!
Getting ready
So first time blogging. Here we go.
I leave tomorrow on the 3:45 pm flight out of Bda to Newark, with a three hour lay over until my flight to Delhi at 8:25 pm. Of course, that is assuming that I actually get out. As luck should have it I woke up this morning unable to open my mouth (no comments please) with a throbbing pain coming from my wisdom tooth which is now fully emerged. Ironic since my aunt Sony had sent me a .pdf with trip advice which included 'going to a dentist for a check up before your trip'. Of course I laughed and thought "Im fiiiiine!" Note to self: mothers and aunts are always right. Emergency dentist visit anyone?
So, my painful tooth coupled with the ash cloud from the volcano has given my mother reason to believe that there are one too many signs of why I should not go.
Damn lost my train of thought. Happens too often. I should lay off the coffee.
Ok so first post over. Wish me luck.
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