Early wake up for a 9am Favella tour yesterday. Of course the 9am start meant a 11am start after we had picked up all of our fellow see through gringos (I obviously blend right in.....ok maybe not). Apparently anyone not from brazil is a gringo so it's not actually an insulting term as it applies even to people from Argentina.
Our tour guide Daniella took us to the favella Rocina (pronounced Hoe-seena) where we all jumped on the back of a motorbike to get to the top. Got a bit of an introduction as we all sped (helmetless) to the top while passing a gentleman holding a gigantic rifle. We were specifically told to "so so so pleeease guys no pictures taking of any men with walkie talkies or guns". Uh, no problem!
The favella itself was actually not at all scary. As a pack of gringos we all walked around through the narrow streets boldly holding our cameras. Had some sweets from a local pastry maker (chocolate donuts have never tasted so good). Despite the many stories that Daniella had to tell us of the workings of the drug dealers (my favorite being a police bust where 1 tonne of cocaine was airlifted out and "disappeared" as it flew over the favella) we felt surprisingly safe. Of course Daniella, covered in tattoos with hair to her waist, told us that even if we were to get in trouble, the guys in here knew her and would "take care of us".
Got dropped off at the sugar loaf where we got the cable car up and had a magnificent view of rio.
Quick dinner and an 8pm (four hour) bus ride to Paraty where we arrived in the middle of a blackout. In daylight Paraty (aka Parati) is a beautiful cobble stoned street town on the water. Took an all day boat tour with some fellow tourists from the hostel and visited various little beaches and islands and coves all while trying to avoid staring at our corageous boat traveller who went topless the entire time.
Arrived back on land just in time for a beautiful sunset over the harbor (full of other sail boats). Just as we pulled in the fisherman were unloading their crates of shrimp. Definitely going to look for some shrimp on the menu tonight!
Oh and for Paul, for a snack on our way to the boat tour today we grabbed a couple "carno" Pastels as you suggested. Amazing! A flaky light pastry fried with minced meat inside. Delicious.
Its so nice here we may stay another day and go on a mountain bike ride to see some waterfalls, one of which is supposed to have a slide down (naturally created). In fact, we could stay for another week it is so nice.
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